Don’t Check in the Surfboards – I’m Staying! – Alex’s story of making a new life in Costa Rica

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“Dont check-in the surfboards, I’m staying”

These were the last words I told to my then boyfriend, when we were at the airport about to end a trip to Costa Rica for our home in Spain. It was one of those moments where everything seemed to line up – everything stopped and in that instant it hit me, this was my quest for freedom and change.

Just like in surfing when a  perfect wave comes to you, and you happen to be sitting in the right spot. You need to ride that wave no matter the consequences, and me, I had to take this “wave” that was approaching me.

It wasn’t anything I did lightly. I’d been with my boyfriend for many years. We had lived together in a camper van running a surf school in Spain. I’d known for a little while that maybe everything wasn’t happening the way I wanted for my life and a trip to Costa Rica opened my eyes to what else was out there. But it wasn’t until we were at the airport, checking in on our way home that it hit me. I couldn’t get on that plane.

In that moment of revelation my now ex-boyfriend  started shouting  at me  – “What are you doing? Are you crazy? You’re going to regret this for the rest of your life, and there’s no coming back”.

All of a sudden the feelings of insecurity and fear started to boil in me, and in those milliseconds I thought to myself:

“This trip has changed my life completely, from a personal and spiritual perspective. Everything in my life until this moment was good and I am very grateful for it, however something in me is lacking and I’m not sure – what! I have to find out.”

The voyage to Costa Rica made me feel free. Being surrounded by life, nature and kind people, it was the best I had felt in a long time. This place filled me up with energy, made me feel more complete, love myself more, and helped me gain confidence in myself again. All this thanks to getting out of my comfort zone and confronting life.

I asked myself – ‘was I going to put all of this at risk?’. Since I finally felt one with myself again the answer had to be YES!

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Sometimes we get stuck in patterns, habits, unfulfilling jobs and relationships. And there are times when you ask yourself, “Am I where I want to be?”

We get comfortable in everyday routines, we get stuck, and we can’t grow. We are  not feeling bad, but were not feeling good. The beauty is out there, but we cannot see it. We know something is missing, but we don’t know what.

And Then it strikes you: it’s time to change.

While I was standing there at the airport alone, with two surfboard bags, without a credit card, and only 20$ in my pocket, for a second I questioned myself:

Did I make the right decision?

While I was thinking that, a random guy approached and asked me, “Where are you going?”

I replied, “I was just about to go back home to Spain, but I heard winter’s coming up here in Costa Rica and the waves are going to be really sick, so I decided to stay.”

He said, “Good for you, that’s the way to do it”, and shoved 80$ in my pocket and disappeared.

I guess that was life’s way of telling me I was on the right path.

I have learned that when you make a decision that you feel deeply in your heart, life opens its arms to you. It wants you to be happy and follow your path.

So whenever you have a strong feeling, deep inside, follow it because life’s there waiting to help you, to receive you and embrace you.

Don’t be scared to start a new beginning.

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Everything after that fell into place. I got a job at an oceanfront hotel where I worked and lived for a while. I got to surf the winter waves, the biggest waves I had ever surfed.

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I also had massive wipe outs.

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I did several surf trips around the country where I happened to meet Holly along the way.

We were out in the surf at Pavones, the waves were super fun and all of a sudden we started talking, connected and she offered me this great opportunity to work in Surf With Amigas.

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Working with Surf with Amigas has been a dream job. All the people you meet, the places you go, the food you eat, the waves you surf and the yoga from the heart.  It’s been mind blowing ,the idea of helping people push themselves, surf waves they had never surfed and progressing in their surfing in ways they didn’t even imagine. It’s been a very nourishing experience, all the unique women i’ve met, the moments we’ve shared , the  conversations we’ve had, the tears, the laughs, the wild moments and the adrenaline rushes. It’s been awesome and I have learned so much about life, people, situations and myself.

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After this big change in my life I feel that there are no coincidences. Everything is connected and happens for a reason and it’s all perfect the way it is.

Just as the world is in constant movement with the sun, the moon and all living things, we too move with it. As it changes we change with it, and as it grows we grow with it.

Everything is in harmony. The ocean moves through the force of the tides and the winds, and these move because of the circular motion of the earth. We too move within them. Life is expressing itself through wanting us to be true to our real nature.

We are all part of the same circle and we are all inhabitants of the same planet. We are all heroes of our paths. We all have the potential to do great things, to seek our happiness and feel fulfilled. All that is needed is to make little steps in the direction that feels right in our hearts.

Be the architect of your future and let life be your expression.

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With love, Alex

 

How To Make Your Own Surfboard – By Alex Berning

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The most exciting thing I have been doing on my vacation is working on my new surfboard. Recently I’ve been told about some of the great surfboards that can be found on websites similar to https://flyerdiaries.com/, so I’ve become pretty inspired to design a surfboard of my own.

A friend of mine had been constructing a machine to make surfboards for a while now and he had finally finished, so I was tempted to try it. I have now officially learned all the steps to making a board and it was very interesting!

The steps to making a surfboard are basically choosing the design and materials, gluing the stringer to foam, cutting foam, shaping it, glassing/laminating, and last sanding it.

Then it should be ready to surf.

Design:

I wanted to create a mix in between two short boards I had that I really liked. One, a high performance regular short board made for bigger waves, and the other a high performance small wave board. They were both really good boards, but very different.

-Small wave boards are normally characterized by being a bit shorter, wider and with less rocker. (Rocker is the amount of curve a board has from nose to tail – how much it flips up on either end). Flatter boards usually go faster, skimming over the surface of the water.

-Bigger wave boards are usually a bit longer with more planing surface making it easier to paddle into the waves, narrower and with more rocker. The rocker helps the board fit better in the contour of the wave, allowing you to surf in the steeper part of the wave and do a more critical type of surfing. On a bigger wave, the wave provides more power. A board with more curve will need more push to go fast, and will hold into the wave better.

The first step was to measure both of the surfboards, length, width, thickness and rocker.

After that we put the measurements into the computer, digitized the two boards and combined them to create a hybrid.

Materials

Now came the moment to choose the materials. There have been many advances through the years from the early days of surfing when the Hawaiians used surfboards made from the wood of Koa trees to the Californians later using redwood, to continuing after WW2 when new materials became available through advances in technology. Polyurethane (or PU) was the most significant for many years until polystyrene (like styrofoam) started to become more popular over the last decade.

*Many people note a difference between epoxy or fiberglass but this is not correct. Epoxy is a type of resin that can be applied to either polyurethane or polystyrene foam, but most commonly is paired with polystyrene. Both Epoxy AND PU surfboards are coated with fiberglass.

I had always used PU surfboards boards but this time I wanted to try something different and opted for an epoxy board made with polystyrene foam. Epoxy is a material thats becoming more a more popular in the surfing world. The resin is more environmentally friendly to use and the foam is lighter and stronger, which equals to more speed and easier maneuvering. The only disadvantage is that it is usually stiffer than a PU board which can make the board feel like it’s riding on top of the water – something only a more advanced surfer would feel and something that can be a benefit in certain types of waves.

This brings me to the stringer of the board. The stringer is the thin strip of wood that runs down the middle of the board. They are traditionally used to strengthen the core of the surfboard, helping it prevent from breaking in half. Since I used an Epoxy board which are known to be less flexible than fiberglass boards we decided to use a new material – PVC for the stringer used normally for constructing sewer pipes, yikes! This is supposed to add more flexibility to the board since its plastic not wood, making it bend more so it can shoot you out through the turns allowing you to build up more speed. Hopefully I won’t get shot out of the wave!

Gluing stringer to foam

Then we proceeded to cut the foam in half vertically from nose to tail and glued the PVC stringer in between the two halves, and clamped it back together.

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Cutting

This was the most exciting part. First we situated the foam in the middle of the machine, centralized and attached it, and watched the machine cut the foam. Once it was finished we used rough sandpaper to shape the rails (the outside edge of a surfboard) nose and tail.

Then marked with a pencil were the fins will be situated, drilled the holes and then placed the fin plugs. Then it was ready for lamination and glassing.

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Lamination and Glassing:

There are two materials to be used here : the fiberglass and the epoxy resin.

Fiberglass is a cloth that is laid over the surface of the board and then cut to the boards shape. The resin is poured over the fiberglass and spread evenly. First the top is done, then left to dry, and then the bottom part of the board.

Once dry we drill a hole through the tail to attach the leash.

Sanding:

This is the last step and the one i’m on right now. We just need to sand every curve and line to its perfection and then it will be ready to surf.

Yihaaa its been a long process almost a month, but we’re almost there!

Cant wait to try it!

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