We had an Amiga join us on a retreat a few months ago who is already an experienced surfer but was looking for a “girl’s trip” surf getaway. She wrote a review on her blog which you can read here:
Here’s a preview, but check out the link above for the full review! It’s a fun read:
Review of Surf with Amigas, Women’s Surf and Yoga Retreats held in Nicaragua and Costa Rica
One recent evening after weeks without swell at our local break and a couple of glasses of wine, I jumped on the internet to research surf spots in Nicaragua and came across a review of Surf With Amigas , a women’s surf coaching retreat founded by retired professional surfer Holly Beck. Fuelled by impulse and alcohol, I shot off an email to Holly asking if there were any available spots on an upcoming trip. Waking sober the next morning to a reply from Holly, I realized I had somehow committed myself to a whole week of 24/7 female bonding with twenty women I had never met. After a bit more back and forth with Holly about my surfing ability, board sizes and objectives for the trip, I lay down my 50% deposit and booked a waxing appointment.
My husband and I have been on many surf trips where I was the only female surfer or there were only 2 or 3 of us. There is upside and downside to this arrangement but I have to say it had never occurred to me to attend a women’s only surf camp. However, despite surfing for over 20 years, I classify myself as a competent but not confident surfer. Big, hollow waves still cause brain freeze after all these years and the chance to improve my technique and confidence in fun uncrowded waves where I didn’t have to hassle with a bunch of guys was appealing….
Amigas got some awesome waves and some sick go pro footy! Stoked they took a break from their skiing and snowboarding to come hang with us for the week!
[youtube=http://youtu.be/2Rje8h3hudU]
The retreat hadn’t even officially started yet, but three of the Amigas showed up on the early flight and with a solid swell running and the froth factor high, we took them to Pavones for their warm up session. It was incredible! Holly and Michelle were frothing so hard. The current was ripping along the point making it impossible to stop paddling for even a second while well overhead doubling up lefts were steam rolling down the point.
We were a little nervous taking the girls out at first. Molly is from Chicago and had only surfed one week before, during her first retreat with us almost a year ago. Luckily she’s a really strong paddler and had total faith in the instructors. She dodged the sets and scored a couple of sweet rides.
Karen is 66 years old and lives on Kauai. She is so inspirational. She paddled out through a heavy set and then out to the peak. Her goal this week is to catch some waves without going to her knees. She caught 4 or 5 of the most beautiful waves before calling it a day.
Amber is from the gulf coast of Florida and surprised herself being able to surf big Pavones, especially on the first day of the retreat. She took a gnarly wipeout on a big wave that was unfortunately not captured on video, but shook it off and got one good wave after that.
A recent article on the surf website, The Inertia, talks about the the science behind “frothing” and “being stoked.” Research shows that surfing elevates our levels of dopamine and adrenaline, and sea spray from crashing waves releases negatively charged ions into the air…all of which makes us feel great!
A surfer gets stoked with a mid-surf ion fix. Photo: Gibson
Check out the full article by Bridget Reedman here:
We all surf for different reasons – for health and fitness, adventure, experience, or just to be out in the ocean. Whatever our motivation, every surfer knows the feeling of surf stoke.
But while we’re all familiar with the inherent physical, physiological and sub-conscious benefits of our sport, recently published research shows that people feeling “surf stoked” are, in fact, enjoying a chemical cocktail triggered by the charged ions found in the atmosphere around turbulent water.
While surfing, we experience elevated levels of Adrenalin and Dopamine. Adrenaline raises your heart rate and increases your reaction time (the fight or flight reflex), while Dopamine is a chemical neurotransmitter triggered in your body when you are doing something you like. “Adrenaline junkies” – such as big wave surfers – get used to higher levels of these chemicals, as demonstrated by Keanu Reeves in Point Break (see video).
While this adrenalin rush may give us an edge in the water the effects subside quickly once ashore, while surf-stoke remains long after we’re back on the beach. Research suggests these persistent effects of surf euphoria may be attributed to an unlikely candidate: sea spray.
The turbulence created by breaking waves alters the physical structure of the air and water, breaking apart water and air molecules and releasing charged ions* into the atmosphere. On their eternal quest for perfect waves surfers inevitably encounter this altered atmospheric state.
Some scientists are convinced this abundance of negative ions has a positive effect on mood by triggering the release of endorphins and serotonin – the “happy hormones” – and increasing blood flow and oxygen circulation through our bodies.
Similar studies show other environments with negatively charged atmospheric conditions, such as around waterfalls and on snowy mountains, produce similar effects. Maybe if your shower pressure is really good you could re-create the environment and get shower-stoked, using the same principle of turbulent water!
A study of 107 surfers in California investigated the mental health benefits of surfing by asking surfers to describe how they felt before and after a surf. Surfers reported feeling calmer and more tranquil afterwards. Ryan Pittsinger, the researcher behind the study, put the results down to solitude – “It’s just you…it allows you to clear your head.”
Perhaps the results would have differed on a busy day at Snapper…
Organizations around the world have tapped into this surfing “zen” to treat afflictions such as depression, schizophrenia, seasonal affective disorder (a type of winter depression) and post-traumatic stress disorder. The Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation in California is using a program known as Ocean Therapy to teach people with combat-related post-traumatic stress to apply skills learned from surfing – including trust and confidence – to their everyday lives.
A documentary released earlier in the year, Somewhere near Tapachula, told the story of Mission Mexico, an organization bringing happiness back into the lives of orphaned kids in Mexico through surfing. Building confidence, self-esteem and providing an escape from their previous lives gave the children new hope to follow their dreams and reach an exciting future. The success of the program showed surfing therapy to be more effective than even the mission workers had hoped.
As the old saying goes “Only a surfer knows the feeling” – and as a surfer you don’t need scientific studies to know that surfing more is good for your health. Nonetheless, this new research provokes appreciation for environmental health and personal health.
And if the beach is too far and you need a quick “up,” try the shower.
*Ion – an atom or group of atoms with a net electric charge. Scientists reckon the beneficial ions include Sodium and Chloride (from Sodium Chloride, commonly known as sea salt) and other trace elements such as Magnesium.
