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I started surfing at age 14 despite my mom telling me surfing is for boys and I should be sitting on the beach looking cute instead of out competing with them. I put everything into surfing, papered my walls with magazine pages, wrote every school report on something related to surfing, became a professional surfer, and only after having two kids did I slow down just a bit on living my life around swells and tides.
wherever I happen to be at the time
Hollow shore break
becoming a better person
My favorite is taking amigas into big waves and supporting them to charge!