You may have heard the saying “its not the destination its the journey”. It has always kind of annoyed me because the journey normally means long plane rides, delays, layovers, canceled flights etc., and I just want to get to the destination already and skip the “journey” part. But, it doesn’t have to be that way at all. It’s good to think of the journey as an adventure and wherever I end up, even if its not the place I had intended to go, as the destination.
My latest surf adventure in southern Costa Rica was by boat with 3 girlfriends, a cooler full of beer, a comically large quiver of surfboards, and a desire for right hand point breaks. We left not so bright but very early (4am) and loaded up the boat with all of our boards. We brought long boards, mid length boards and short boards. The great thing about traveling with a boat full of women is that we are always prepared with stylish surf costumes, which explains the plethora of bikinis, leggings, rash guards, surf hats, and some surf sun glasses. Oh, and just in case, the snorkel mask and fins.
Pam LeBlanc is a journalist for the Austin Statesman. She joined us on a retreat this past summer to learn to surf and wrote about her experience. An excerpt from her exciting story is below, along with a link to the full article. Enjoy!
Surf instructor Chloe demonstrates the nose ride on a long left.
The waves await
On the last day of surf camp, we head across the muddy gravel road in front of our cabins to a stretch of beach where the waves break big.
There, the ocean curls over into industrial-size rolls of carpet, crashing in rapid-fire explosions of greenish-gray spray. The roar drowns out the squawking of the scarlet macaws, and I can’t draw my eyes away. Those waves look huge to me, much bigger than the “cute” ones we’ve been practicing on all week, even though I know that for seasoned surfers they’d present no problem.
Surfboards in tow, 10 other women and I stare out to sea. Then we wade into the surf. We dash out, a few at a time, between the biggest sets, springing onto our boards and paddling furiously, jumping off and “turtling” them overhead to get through bigger waves.
It takes 30 minutes for all of us to work our way safely past the break. Then we sit up, watching intently for just the right set.
After a week of practice, now comes the test……
Post session view review
Making waves
Before the first ocean session at all-women’s Surf With Amigas camp in southern Costa Rica, we gathered beneath a covered pavilion for some dry land briefings. We learned the parts of a surfboard, the basics about wave formation and how to get up on a surfboard. Instructors broke the pop-up technique into steps, and we practiced on yoga mats.
Then we headed to the beach in a van loaded with colorful boards, music pulsing out the windows. For the next five days, our group broke into two — beginners like me and more experienced paddlers. We visited two nearby beaches, and one day rode a boat to catch a wave off the Osa Peninsula. We paddled into swell after swell, missing some and catching others.
Gradually, things got easier. I grew comfortable hopping onto the board and easing myself into the standing position. I didn’t always get it, and fell off pretty quickly when I did, but I swooned every time I felt that sweet push when I caught a wave just right. After a few days, I could turn down the line, riding a small wave as it broke toward shore. The other campers and I cheered each accomplishment, and at the end of every session we snacked on fresh watermelon and pineapple.
“These trips are confidence-boosting, girl power.”
Lucy Schwartz, 27
Then we headed back to our cabins, no-frills, cement-floored shelters without air conditioning or hot water but with plenty of charm.
Sure, we all went nuts when a local woman stopped by to paint toucans and palm trees on our fingernails, we descended like vultures when organizers pulled out an array of teeny-weeny bikinis available for purchase, and we staged the greatest slumber party of all time one night when we made chocolate from scratch, sipped wine and braided each other’s hair.
But make no mistake: This was no frivolous get-together. We came to surf.
Costa Rican wildlife
To read more, click the link below for the full article:
During retreats we focus on avoiding crowds altogether as much as possible, but we know that most people don’t have the luxury of living in a spot or having a schedule where it’s possible to avoid other surfers. For all of you living a city surf lifestyle, here are some tips you can use to catch more waves even at a crowded spot.
Holly with a lonely pre-sunrise bottom turn at a normally very crowded spot.
Paula Bushardt is a retired engineer living in Florida who has joined us on several SWA retreats. She offered up this review of her experiences:
First Retreat in El Salvador
My first visit to Surf with Amigas was in 2012 in El Salvador at Las Flores. A dear friend called me up and said she wanted to go on a surf trip to celebrate her 40th birthday. I told her I was in as long as it was all-inclusive. I had been working many hours and was exhausted from life’s burdens and didn’t want to have to think for a week. The goal was to ride epic waves, get warm and go brain dead.
Here’s the highlight video from Paula’s first retreat with us, back when SWA was called “Suave Dulce!” Check out Paula’s wave at 2:13 of the video!
I was talking to a group of Amigas recently who were asking about various aged participants and was reminded of this story. It’s such a good one that I wanted to share. Read below about the incredibly inspirational Genie!
Learning to surf after age 50
Genie learned to surf at age 50 in order to share the sport with her son who was a surfer. She then joined us on her first retreat in Nicaragua as a 67 year old, to take her surfing to the next level with a group of other supportive women, and practice yoga. We do often have ladies join us in their late 50s and even 60s, but Genie is a special case. Vivacious, hilarious, energetic, not to mention looking amazing in her bikini, we were all immediately so inspired.
In October we hosted our very first exclusively advanced level tube riding clinic. Seven Amigas and one Amigo joined us, all with the goal of getting their first tube ride. The Surf With Amigas staff offered in-water help yelling “go go go, cute one!, daily video coaching, and classroom sessions to get them into position. By the end of the week half the group had gotten their first tube ride! The rest have the tools to keep practicing at home to make it happen.
Here’s the highlight video from all the guests. Standby for the highlights from the instructors showing how it’s done. I love the wipeout sections of this video! It shows how much everyone wanted to get their first tube ride and were willing to push themselves over the edge!
Alison charging a hollow wave.
If you want to improve your skills and are an intermediate to advanced surfer, join us on one of our advanced coaching retreats for surf, yoga, some adventure, and high level coaching to get you to achieve your goals!
We will be working on adding another exclusively shortboard tube riding clinic to the schedule soon. Email if you are interested in more info!
Mom of two from Florida drops in on a nice one and gets a backside tube.
Surf With Amigas surf and yoga teacher Cherise Richards takes us through some exercises and stretches that will help you prepare for your trip. Strengthen arms, core, legs, and back, then stretch them out to increase mobility so you’ll be more prepared to perform your best on day 1 of your retreat. Keep this program going after your trip to stay in shape back in the “real world” too! Check out the video!
Getting barreled is the best feeling in surfing. Surf With Amigas has begun offering advanced level retreats geared towards helping guests learn to get their first tube ride or improve their tube riding technique. Here are a few tips to help you practice before your trip even if you don’t live near hollow waves. Click Play above!
We occasionally receive a message from an Amiga asking to be able to ride a “fiberglass board” on their Surf With Amigas Retreat as opposed to an epoxy board. The question always makes us grimace.
Unless the board is made from some unusual material like carbon fiber, ALL surfboards are wrapped in fiberglass. I think what most surfers are actually wanting is to avoid riding a “pop-out” board – as in the mass-produced SurfTech or NSP variety. When choosing a surfboard the actual factor to consider is whether the board is made with polyurethane (PU) or epoxy (EPS) foam.
Let’s Start with the Basics: How are Surfboards Made?
In case you have no idea how surfboards are constructed, we’ll start with the basics. Of course there are always experimental surfboards out there, but the vast majority of boards are made of a foam core wrapped in layers of fiberglass and laminated with resin.
In the diagram here you see a foam core which can be “EPS” or “PU” (more on that in a bit), covered in layers of different weight fiberglass (in this case 4oz on top, 6oz on bottom), then laminated with resin. You can see the wooden stringer down the center represented as blue lines.
The surfboard starts as a “blank” which is a chunk of foam already in the general size and shape of a finished surfboard. The foam core, or blank, is formed in a large, cement mold roughly the shape of the surfboard. The mold is constructed in two halves, and the inside is lined with a special paper that keeps the foam from sticking to the mold. The two halves are clamped together and the mold is heated. When the liquid polyurethane chemicals are poured into the mold, the heat triggers a chemical reaction which begins forming a dense, white foam. Surfboard builders call this process, “blowing the blank.” After 25 minutes, the mold is opened and the foam core is taken out and allowed to finish hardening. Once the core is hard, it is cut in half vertically from the nose to the tail. A thin stringer is glued between the two halves, and the core is then clamped back together to dry. Stringers provide stiffness, strength, and the right amount of spring when the board is compressed through turns.
This process creates a blank that looks like a rough surfboard. It’s thicker, longer, and rougher than the finished product, but already more or less in the final shape. Surfboard shapers choose a blank closest in size to the board they want to make as the density is not uniform throughout. There is generally a slightly more dense outer layer and a softer inner layer. The shaper will then just use a planer to cut the blank down to the desired thickness, rail shape, tail shape and add bottom contour.
Here’s a Surfboard Shaping History Lesson:
From 1961-2005, 90% of American-made and 60% of surfboards made worldwide began as polyurethane foam (PU) blanks blown by Clark Foam in southern California. In 2005, citing difficulties from environmental regulatory agencies, he abruptly shut down his factory which sent shockwaves through the industry.
Vintage Gordon “Grubby” Clark in his foam factory, along with a lineup of three iconic Clark Foam “blanks”.
The sudden closing and destruction of the Clark Foam factory was seen as a big “f*ck you” to the industry and led to mild panic in some circles. Such was the power of this man and his near complete domination of the surfboard industry. See the photo on the right of the destroyed blank molds.
After the initial panic subsided, most shapers began to view the closure of Clark Foam as a good thing for surfboard material innovation. It ended a period of monopolistic control and created a new, free, open market for blank builders to come in with new technology and ideas. It also encouraged shapers to put more energy into experimentation with the more environmentally-friendly expanded polystyrene blanks. There are some benefits to the newer technology. For one, the density is uniform throughout the blank.
These new blanks are laminated with epoxy resins. Epoxy emits 50-75% fewer VOCs (volatile organic compounds) than polyester resin. Also epoxy is lighter than polyester. Under most circumstances, resin makes up a large part of a completed board’s overall weight. Not only is epoxy resin lighter than polyester, but less is needed per coat. This ends up meaning a much lighter surfboard – a big plus for most surfers. The biggest bonus however is the durability and strength of epoxy boards, not to mention the benefits to the environment.
TWO TYPES OF EPOXY FOAM
1. EXPANDED Polystyrene (EPS, beaded foam)
Expanded, or beaded, foam (EPS) is a relatively inexpensive and incredibly lightweight surfboard core. Manufacturers produce sheets of EPS by feeding tiny polystyrene spheres into a machine, then introducing steam coupled with a tiny amount of pentane gas to expand the beads and mold them to one another. The end result is an open cell foam, meaning that is very water absorbent. To combat this issue, shapers who use EPS foam usually add extra layers of fiberglass and epoxy resin to prevent any dings from penetrating deep enough to reach the foam. Epoxy resin is the only resin that can be used with EPS boards. The extra layers of fiberglass and resin make the boards stiffer and more solid feeling. It leads to a less flexible feel than a “traditional” board. A beginner surfer would not be able to tell the difference, but an advanced surfer who is compressing her board into high speed turns will definitely notice.
“Pop-out” boards are made using EPS foam, because the beads can be formed into specific molds. Often times these blanks are used without stringers relying on just the strength of the blank and the thicker layers of fiberglass in the glassing. The entire board is made in a mold or with vacuum bagging technology. This leads to the boards being less refined. They will be cheaper and more durable which makes them excellent for beginners who are not ready to invest in a more expensive surfboard. They are perfectly fine to learn on.
Originally, very few hand shapers use this type of EPS foam, because it is difficult to work with and nearly impossible to fine-tune with shaping tools (the beads retain their spherical shapes so well that any sanding causes whole chunks of foam to fall off, leaving the edges jagged). But recently better EPS with smaller cells has been created so that it now works for hand shaped boards as well. When Holly was a pro surfer getting boards from Rusty Surfboards, almost all of her boards were made of EPS foam and looking at the boards even up close, it would be very difficult for anyone to tell the difference of EPS vs PU in the finished board.
These days EPS foam technology has improved and high performance EPS blanks are available. Professional surfers and recreational surfers alike will choose EPS boards because of their environmentally friendly characteristics. They are also a lot lighter which makes them ideal for smaller waves or smaller surfers carrying bigger boards.
Characteristics of boards with Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) epoxy foam:
more water absorbent foam
lightweight
extra layers of fiberglass + epoxy resin for ding prevention
potentially more solid feel because of extra fiberglass + resin (less flexible for advanced surfers)
Holly with an EPS and Epoxy board by Rusty Surfboards
2. EXTRUDED (XTR, closed cell)
Extruded foam (XTR) is made using expensive machinery and computers. The machines melt polystyrene crystals down, using additives and a blowing agent to essentially deflate and combine all of the ingredients together. The result is a fluid that expands as it cools, forming solid blocks of XTR foam. The foam is closed cell, so it blocks out moisture – a good thing in case you get a ding.
The process of making XTR foam is time-consuming and costly. The price of the foam itself, coupled with the fact that most XTR epoxy boards are hand-shaped, does unfortunately lead to a more expensive finished board – but one with several benefits. Not only is the foam core moisture-wicking and stronger than other types of foam, it is also extremely resistant to dings and compression-caused dents. XTR foam also has a good flex pattern, so it’s responsive on the water.
The problem with closed cell foam is two-fold. First, as mentioned above, it is expensive. You will almost always pay more for an XTR board than one made from EPS. Second, there have been reports of bubbles and delamination in the decks of some closed cell boards, caused by gas build-up between the foam, fiberglass and resin layers. However, some companies have made huge developments in XTR-constructed boards, finding ways to allow the gases to escape without compromising the integrity of the surfboard.
Holly has an XTR board that she’s been riding hard for over 15 years that is still in very good condition, something virtually impossible with other types of construction.
Characteristics of boards with Extruded Polystyrene (XTR) foam:
more expensive
moisture wicking foam core (doesn’t absorb water even when dinged)
stronger foam core
good flex for advanced surfers
extremely resistant to dings and pressure dents
Riding my XTR board in really fun waves about 15 years ago. It still looks good and works just as well today.
OTHER TECHNOLOGIES:
TL2 by SurfTech
SurfTech makes a Techlite core (fused cell foam, virtually waterproof) technology they call the TL2 design. The Techlite core is further improved upon with the addition of an Acrylite skin, which is glassed onto the board using epoxy resin. The Acrylite skin and the epoxy coating work with the core material to create an incredibly strong, responsive surfboard. The extra strength means that no stringer is needed, so the board is more flexible and springy in the water as well.
Hayden Shapes
Hayden Shapes is a quality surfboard manufacturer, also experimenting with different materials and designs. The Hypto Krypto is an awesome design for surfers wanting to go down in length but still keep paddle power since it has a wider nose for more planing but a narrower turn for high performance turns.
The construction combines a stringer-less, high-density custom shaped EPS core, laminated with biaxial fiberglass, epoxy resin and a parabolic carbon fiber frame. The carbon fiber frame within the laminate is the key to the performance vitality. Designed to maximize speed and drive while minimizing twist, FutureFlex essentially stores and releases energy as the surfer transitions through a turn. The FutureFlex construction creates a fast, dynamic and highly responsive surfboard that’s been design engineered for performance surfing ranging from the intermediate to advanced level.
This is Holly riding a surfboard made by a company called Aviso that no longer exists. It’s a hollow-core (no blank at all) carbon fiber board. The construction is similar to the SCore in that it is hollow, but made fully of carbon fiber so they are all black. (Tricky to keep the wax on when surfing one in the tropics as they get really hot).
In summary – Epoxy vs Polyurethane
As described above, epoxy is lighter, stronger, and more environmentally friendly. An old EPS blank can be broken down and recycled into a new blank. The epoxy resin is less toxic to the board builder and the environment.
So what are the benefits of a lighter board? A lighter board is easier to carry, easier to paddle, and will often feel faster when riding them along the face of the wave. These all lead to more fun and froth, which is what it is all about. They are also very durable and maintain their integrity a lot longer than PU boards.
But, the epoxy boards can be stiffer and lighter which makes them tend to feel more “buoyant” and ride on top of the water, rather than in the wave. Since they are much more buoyant than PU boards, it is possible to ride shorter boards which can also enhance performance as the board fits better in the curve of the wave. Even pros ride EPS boards in smaller to medium-sized waves.
However, this buoyant feeling can make some people not like them. Also “pop-out” boards are made from this technology which can give the materials a bad name since they are associated with the image of cheaply produced junk.
In smaller, weaker surf, or for a beginner, the lightness is a really good thing. You will get the best weight to strength ratio with EPS/Epoxy construction; hand-built, composite, molded or otherwise. You’ll be able to lift a large board and carry it more easily to the water. For a surfer that is doing fast turns, the lightness of an EPS core combined with the strength of epoxy resin, will make for a more responsive, lively board.
It’s important to note that in bigger surf or choppy conditions, experienced surfers may actually prefer a slightly heavier board. Some older surfers who’ve gotten used to their PU boards will tell you that the feel and flex of a PU board is a feeling that will stick with you. Epoxy boards can have a “corky” feeling to them that can take some getting used to. Also, chop and windy conditions can make a lighter board feel like it’s bouncing more rather than plowing through the chop. Bigger waves are nice on heavier boards, especially if it’s also windy. In that case a PU blank with Polyester resin may be better.
A middle ground option is using a PU blank with Epoxy resin. Polyester resin will eat away (think: more nasty chemicals) EPS foam, but you can use epoxy resin with PU blanks so that’s a good compromise if you’re looking for the flex and weight of a PU blank with the environmental friendliness and durability of Epoxy.
Our advice: Get the board that you have the most fun on and makes you the happiest, because in the end, it doesn’t matter what you ride, as long as you are stoked.
Any guesses which of these are EPS and which are PU? It’s impossible to tell at a distance.
You may have already seen this video, but if not, you should take a moment and watch it right now. I watched it twice in a row and found it pretty hilarious. It’s also something to help make you feel good about your body, as opposed to all the perfectly posed and often airbrushed images of girls with surfboards that you see on social media. It’s even a departure from the perfectly toned and ridiculously fit pro surfer girls who have all day long to train themselves into bikini shape, despite the fact that Lauren Hill is also a pro surfer. Being a woman in a bikini is not easy! If you feel that way as well, here’s some validation.
After watching that video I was inspired to learn more about the creator. If you feel the same, see the video below:
SurfTech makes a Techlite core (fused cell foam, virtually waterproof) technology they call the TL2 design. The Techlite core is further improved upon with the addition of an Acrylite skin, which is glassed onto the board using epoxy resin. The Acrylite skin and the epoxy coating work with the core material to create an incredibly strong, responsive surfboard. The extra strength means that no stringer is needed, so the board is more flexible and springy in the water as well.
The construction combines a stringer-less, high-density custom shaped EPS core, laminated with biaxial fiberglass, epoxy resin and a parabolic carbon fiber frame. The carbon fiber frame within the laminate is the key to the performance vitality. Designed to maximize speed and drive while minimizing twist, FutureFlex essentially stores and releases energy as the surfer transitions through a turn. The FutureFlex construction creates a fast, dynamic and highly responsive surfboard that’s been design engineered for performance surfing ranging from the intermediate to advanced level.
