Indonesia Archives | Surf With Amigas

Surfing over a reef can offer some of the most thrilling and picturesque experiences in the ocean. Our retreat locations in both Indonesia and the Maldives are renowned for their incredible reef breaks, attracting surfers from around the globe. However, surfing over reefs also comes with its unique set of challenges and risks, not to mention intimidation factor! Here are three essential tips to help you navigate these stunning but potentially hazardous spots safely and with confidence.

1. get to Know the Breaks

Understanding the specifics of the break you’re heading to is crucial. Every break has its own characteristics and potentially problematic zones. For this reason alone, local knowledge is invaluable. Once you arrive at your destination, talk to local surfers or guides to learn about the best tides, swell directions, and any specific dangers such as sharp coral heads or strong currents so you can be well equipped when you paddle out.

Most importantly, research the destination and surf breaks you’ll be going to before arrival. Watch videos, check out swell forecasts, and look at wave guides or other resources on websites like Surfline. Understanding the conditions you may be dealing with in advance will better help you prepare, both mentally and physically!

Pro Tip: Utilize Local Knowledge

2. Equip Yourself Properly

Surfing over reefs may require some additional gear to ensure your safety, comfort, and confidence in the water! Everyone’s preferences are different, but you may want to invest in some gear listed below:

Reef Booties: These can be extremely helpful in protecting your feet from sharp coral or rocks. If you have to walk over reef to paddle out to the break, they’ll also help provide better grip when walking over slippery, uneven surfaces. Not to mention, if you do find yourself with a few party favors from the reef on your feet, booties will help secure your bandages and provide more protection for your next session.
Rash Guards and Wetsuits: Rash guards and neoprene will not only protect you from the sun but can also soften any blows you might have with the reef!
Surf Helmet: You might not wear a helmet every time you paddle out, but if you’re looking to get some tube time or take off steep and deep in powerful, hollow waves over shallow reef, it may be something you want to look into. Not to mention with tropical surf locations becoming more crowded, protecting yourself from potential collisions with other surfers might not be a bad idea, either.

Finally make sure all of your surf gear (especially things attached to your surfboard) are in good working order before your departure! Using damaged or well-loved items (like leashes!) in critical conditions can quickly turn a minor mishap into a dangerous situation on a reef break, where you need to stay close to your board to avoid injury.

Pro Tip: Use a Strong, High Quality Leash

3. Perfect Your Technique

Paddle and Positioning

Reef breaks often require precise positioning and strong paddling skills to ensure you catch the wave at the right spot and avoid being caught inside.

Take-Off Points: Learn the take-off points specific to each reef break. This is where local knowledge is again invaluable. Being in the right position can mean the difference between a thrilling ride and a dangerous wipeout.
Paddle Power: Reefs often create powerful, fast-breaking waves. Ensure your paddling technique is strong and efficient. Practice quick, explosive paddling to get into the wave early and establish control.

Wave Selection and Exit Strategy

Choosing the right wave is critical, especially over a shallow reef.

Wave Selection: Avoid waves that are too big for your skill level. Start with smaller, more manageable waves and gradually work your way up as you gain confidence and experience.
Exit Strategy: Always have a plan for how to safely exit the wave. Know the safest routes back to the lineup or to shore. If you do wipe out, protect your head with your arms and try to fall flat to distribute the impact.

Pro Tip: Practice Duck Diving (DEEP!) & Don’t Hesitate on The Takeoff

Being proficient at duck diving (pushing your board under an oncoming wave) can help you navigate the sometimes-treacherous waters above a reef. On a steep, powerful wave, hesitating on the takeoff can lead to a potentially dangerous situation (likely getting hung on the lip and going over the falls). Remember to commit! Even if you fall, you’ll be in a safer position on the wave than at the top.

Surfing over reefs in destinations like Indonesia and the Maldives can offer some of the most memorable sessions of your life. Although the first time surfing a reef break might be intimidating, trust yourself and remember to have fun! Often times when we’re nervous we tense up or forget to breathe in stressful situations, which can have negative impacts on our surfing and safety! Breathe and have fun! Happy surfing!

We didn’t sleep that first night. The ground shook from the power of the crashing waves and when we finally walked down to the beach at first light, the bay was stacked to the horizon with perfect lines. We counted seven waves, each an identical copy of the previous, peeling perfectly along the point. A crew of older guys approached.

“Where are you girls surfing? Tiger Tracks? It’s a mellow right-hand point where the women and children surf,” they said. We told them no. We’d come to surf G-Land.

G-Land, off the coast of Java, was our promised land. There were three of us with our spirits synchronized and ready to venture to somewhere new: the exotic Delia Bense-Kang, part Mexican, Korean, and German, who’d grown up surfing the rough seas of Northern California and now works for the Surfrider Foundation. Then there was the gorgeous Silvia Yom, a well-traveled and talented filmmaker and photographer from Los Angeles. And myself, Alex Kelly, known as the fiery Spaniard, who, having finished my degree in Oceanography, started a surf school in southern Spain. We’d all connected by working for Surf With Amigas,an agency dedicated to inspire women in surfing and life through surf and yoga retreats.

As we boarded the fast boat full of dudes we could tell that it was a rare occurrence to see three single girls going to G-Land. Everyone was filled with anticipation, nerves, and hopes of scoring the waves of their lives. Picture perfect hollow barrels – big, long, and fast– with magical conditions were rumored for the next few days. The history and the vibe of transient surfers passing through to ride this dreamy barrel was palpable and the proof lay in a smattering of surf posters on the walls and broken boards strewn around.

In the morning the tide was too low to surf so everyone gathered to watch while sipping their coffee. Conversations consisted of contemplating what board to ride, best entry and exit strategy, where to sit. We did our best to eavesdrop and gather knowledge to build our plan of attack.

Excited but terrified, we eventually made it out…without actually realizing how big it was. With our eyes always set on the horizon we scratched over the top of the first set. There were a few older guys just charging and getting great rides. They didn’t look like they were in good shape but they were ripping. I felt so inspired by them. I was sitting the farthest out because I didn’t want to get worked on the inside and before I knew it, the horizon turned dark, signaling a huge set on the way.

I was too far out to catch any of the first waves that rolled in but the third wave was bigger and I knew I was in the perfect spot. I don’t know what got into me but something clicked and without thinking I just turned around and went for it.

For an instant, everything slowed down and every action and movement followed the previous one. I felt the lift and wind in my face as I cruised all the way down to the bottom of the wave. It started to suck up as it hit the reef and I tried to set my rail and get high to pass the section but it was too late and I wasn’t making it. I could feel the wave collapsing behind me so I straightened out to get as far away as I could from the lip. Then I waited to get hit by the avalanche of whitewater behind me. It slammed me down hard on the reef, but luckily butt first, and it bounced me right back up again. I grabbed the board and paddled back out for more. I caught another one right off the bat that aligned itself beautifully all the way into the channel.

As I paddled back out again I looked toward the lineup and saw a big one coming through. Everyone was eyeing it hungrily as one of the guys took off and ended up flying over the falls. Delia happened to be next in line and I yelled at her, “Send it!” She took off super late, made the drop, and disappeared into the barrel.

It all came together that day and we felt in tune with the ocean, catching one wave after another. The offshore wind was blowing into crystal-clear blue water, creating a wave you could only imagine in your wettest of surf dreams. Our friend Silvia was on the boat right in the lineup cheering and shooting the most epic surf shots. After a few days, we’d earned our places in the lineup and felt right at home with the crew at Bobby’s surf camp. And as all swell cycles come and go, so do these momentous life experiences. The trip confirmed our beliefs in taking life as it comes, to be open to whatever the world has to offer and live for what makes you feel alive and present. If you feel it, just send it.