Category: blog

An Adaptive Surfing Champion’s Journey of Resilience

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Do you ever wonder how you’d react in a life-altering, potentially threatening situation?

I find that until we’re confronted with a risk to our bodily autonomy or basic functions, it’s easy to take our bodies for granted, and forget about the incredible feats that they help us accomplish on a daily basis. But when the body and mind are forced to adapt, it’s amazing how we can relearn and persevere through extremely difficult situations. This week on the Second Breakfast podcast we had a chance to chat with Victoria Feige, who shares her story of resilience and adaptation.

At age 18, Victoria’s life was changed forever after a snowboarding fall left her paralyzed her from the waist down. But she didn’t let her accident slow her down. Now a 5x world para surfing champion, Victoria has an incredible attitude and takes life by storm, even from a wheel chair. Play is her wheelhouse, and she’s relearned how to move through the world and remake her passions in a new body. Even while being airlifted to the hospital, she has always had a persistent focus and passion for life.

Here are some snippets of her story: 

“It’s kind of a crazy story. It sounds horrendous, but I’ve had a lot of fun along the way. So I grew up able-bodied, Canadian, skiing, snowboarding, telemarking. I’m a bit of a risk taker, and did a whole bunch of different sports. I have two older brothers, who are a bit rough and tumble.

When I was 18, I was snowboarding with a friend on spring break. I love to do big mountain riding, like, trees and shoots but I also love jumping in the park. That day I just sent it in the park at the end of the day, kind of showing off for a photo. And I overshot it, got about 15 feet of air and landed badly. So I have a compression fracture of my L1 vertebrae, which means that I’m essentially I was paralyzed from the waist down.

Then [I had] surgery and then really it’s three months at least of rehab in the hospital, learning how to navigate an environment and a body that you’re not that familiar with.

You have to kind of relearn how to move through the world. But I used whatever skills and resources I had to get me where I wanted to go. So I just transferred my skateboarding skills to wheelchair skills, including the ability to see terrain and perform an ollie. I used to rock climb a little bit, so you can find little handholds in an airplane or a subway station if the elevator breaks. You can find ways to navigate the environment.

surf with amigas retreat, amiga story
Headshot taken by Nigel Wallace Media

yes, I have a disability. Yes, I’m a wheelchair user on land. But One of the things I love about surfing is that if I catch a great wave in the water, have a good takeoff and a sick turn, I did that. there’s no tokenism. There’s no special treatment.

My level of function is like far beyond what they could have expected but I also was kind of a high energy, high achiever before I got injured. Those are the elements that make you who you are. That element of pushing the boundaries is without a doubt why I got injured, but it’s pushing the boundaries and trying to get more is also what made me do so well after my injury. 

There’s so much you can do after spinal cord injury. There’s so much that you can achieve and explore and there’s so much life left to live. And yeah, it might look a little different, but the important things of who you are, your friends and family and the things that define you don’t have to change. Unless you want them to change, but itdoesn’t have to determine your whole life.”

To learn more about Victoria and her inspiring story, listen on the Second Breakfast podcast.

3 Steps to Choosing a Longboard Fin

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Start Here: Before picking your fin, ask yourself, how do I want to be surfing?

Nailing down your surfing goals is the first step in choosing the right fin, which will ultimately help you be most successful in the type of surfing that YOU want to do. For example, if your goal is to noseride, you’ll generally want a more upright fin, like a Pivot fin.

How do I choose the right type of fin?

The answer to this question again depends on your answer to the first question listed above! Here are the three most common types of longboard fins, and a bit about the types of surfing they support.

Pivot Fin: This fin is ideal for those looking to practice cross stepping or hankering for some more toes on the nose time. With a sizeable base and plenty of length, pivot fins also allow for more responsive turns.

D Fin: The D-fin is an older fin style ideal for those looking for an old-school feel or riding bigger boards. If you are surfing long point breaks like Malibu and want total control, this could be the fin for you. The large surface area of this fin helps with drive down the line to practice a noseride, but also makes it more difficult to turn.

Flex Fin: The flex fin, created by George Greenough in the 1960’s and inspired by a tuna fish fin, is great for performance logs, bigger turns in the pocket, and for those who are interested in pushing their limits in bigger waves. Flex fins typically have more “rake,” which refers to how far the front edge of the fin arcs backwards. More rake is designed for more drawn out turns. These fins are also great for midlengths!

surf with amigas retreats fins

How do I choose the right sized fin?

As a general rule of thumb, you can take the length of your longboard and use that to size your fin. For example, if you have a 9’6″ log, try starting with a 9.5″ to 10″ fin. 

PRO tip: Depending on your size and the board’s, you can play around with trying a slightly bigger/smaller fin (try starting with 0.5″ differences). A smaller person usually can more easily turn a smaller fin.

Where do I place my fin in the fin box: further forward, centered, or back?

There’s no hard and fast answer to this question. Our general recommendation is to learn by doing, play around with it, change the placement for a session or two and see how it feels. Fin placement within the fin box can alter the sensation you’ll feel when riding a wave.

When placing the fin further back, the board has a very stiff feel. It will give you lots of hold in big waves but make it harder to turn. This also creates more balance for noseriding.

When placing the fin further forward, what you gain in maneuverability you lose in stability. This placement moves the pivot point forward, making the board turn more easily but with a very loose feel.

Remember there is no one-size fits all when it comes to fins! Try different setups in varying conditions to find out what works best for YOU.

For more info about fins and placement, check out the Surf with Amigas Collective!

4 Tips For Managing Fear While Surfing

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At some point in our surf journeys, we are bound to find ourselves stuck in a place we’d rather not be, or at the very least in an unexpected situation in the water. Many different emotions can come up while we’re surfing, but there usually tends to be one common denominator: fear. Whether it boils down to a fear of lack of control, of injury or embarrassment, that nagging, anxiety-inducing feeling in the pit of your stomach is universal in surfing. Feelings of fear are our brain’s way of trying to keep our bodies safe. Here are four tips you can use to help overcome your fear in the water:

1. Acknowledge your fear

The more you can acknowledge that your fear exists, the more likely you can begin to take the needed steps to overcome that fear. Trying to understand exactly where your fear comes from is the first step in processing it. Use that understanding to slowly enlarge your comfort zone. You can do this by taking baby steps of expansion while keeping yourself safely challenged. Whether it is surfing a slightly more difficult break, or trying different maneuvers in the water, give it a go. Using this technique, our amiga Brooke says,

“I recognized that my desire to overcome the fear became stronger than the fear at some point.”

2. Surf with a buddy, or instructor!

Fear can feel like a much more manageable emotion when you have someone to share it with. A little bit of extra encouragement from a friend, especially from someone who may have a bit more experience in the water, can go a long way. If you see your buddy isn’t afraid, often that gives you the permission to let go of your fear. Not to mention, a simple shared look of solidarity before plunging headfirst into a duck dive can do wonders for the nerves.

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3. Practice breathing techniques in the water

As our amiga Brooke explains in her Second Breakfast episode, as soon as we start to hold our breath, the body goes into fight or flight mode. While we’re stressed or anxious, there’s usually an element of breath holding that comes along with that. Especially while we’re laying on our bellies paddling, breathing can easily become constricted. Try focusing on inhaling and exhaling while you’re paddling for a wave. While doing this, you can challenge your own perceptions of fear. Remind yourself that even if you get tumbled around, you’re going to come up, you’re going to be okay. Consider breathing exercises to be an intervention for your anxiety. 

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“Drawing your attention towards your breath can help get you out of a fear state and more into flow state.”

4. Practice positive mantras in the water

Often what holds us back the most in the water is our perceived perception of ourselves and what we are capable of. The brain creates strong neural pathways that dictate these perceptions. The more we believe them and use certain pathways, the more engrained they become. Studies have shown that bilateral movement (like paddling while surfing!) offers an opportunity to create new pathways. The next time you’re paddling out into the lineup, try repeating a positive mantra to yourself. Rather than telling yourself “I suck, I don’t have the skill level to surf this wave,” or “I’m scared I’ll fall and everyone is watching,” try flipping the switch. “My body is strong and capable, and I am doing the best that I can.”

For more surf stories, tips and techniques for managing your emotions in water, check out Brooke’s episode on Second Breakast (the Surf With Amigas podcast).

For some, even the thought of a particular surf destination or break can make the palms break out in a sweat. Are you ready to send it and step out of your comfort zone? Are you an intermediate to advanced surfer and willing to push your limits? Check out our new retreat location, Sumatra!

This February, Holly will be leading a live fear workshop on the Surf With Amigas Collective. We will be taking a deep dive into facing and embracing our fears. Checkout The Collective and subscribe to our newsletter for more information. 

Forging Sisterhood on the Shores of Morocco: an Amiga’s Story

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In the excerpt below, Amiga Sarah Petrarca paints a beautiful picture of sisterhood, surf, and adventure that spans across her time spent at a Surf With Amigas retreat in Morocco.

In the heart of Imsouane, where the Atlantic meets the Atlas Mountains, I began a surf trip that transcended the ordinary. Joined by a crew of adventurous souls, I found myself immersed in the reciprocity of the sea, guided by the expert hands of Surf With Amigas. The waves, the camaraderie, and the magic that unfolded became a living canvas for the sisterhood we forged on the shores of Morocco.

Surf With Amigas, an organization that combines the thrill of surfing with the celebration of female solidarity, proved to be the perfect catalyst for an unforgettable experience. The first lesson on the board was more than a crash course in surfing; it was a metaphorical dive into the depths of connection. The shared laughter, the occasional wipeouts, and the triumphant rides—each moment crafted the unique mosaic of our shared time by the shore.

The Amigas, and our honorary Amigo, provided a safe haven in the lineup to bring everyone confidence. As someone who gets intimidated to surf new places, I can’t thank the SWA coaches enough for their hard work and patience. If I had to provide some tips for newcomers, I would say an open mind and trust in the coaches will go a long way. Waves I felt nervous for or mornings I lacked motivation, they brought the energy through dance parties, cheers, and loads of high fives. I would also say that bringing two wetsuits so that you always have a dry one, helps too!

surf with amigas Morocco
Photos by Sarah Petrarca

Remember that you’ll take a few digs, everyone does. It’s an inevitable part of the surfing journey, a series of little challenges that test your resilience and commitment. Embrace those falls with a smile, knowing that each stumble is an opportunity to learn, improve, and ultimately become a more skilled and confident surfer. It’s these small challenges that make the triumphs taste even sweeter, and they become stories you fondly reminisce about.

In the lulls between sets, I couldn’t help but admire the raw beauty that surrounded me. The cliffside, weathered by time and the elements, stood as silent  witnesses to the timeless dance between woman and nature. The contrast between the arid mountains and the endless expanse of the ocean created a surreal backdrop for my surfing odyssey.  Stretching gracefully along the coastline, these waves welcomed both beginners and seasoned surfers with open arms. Their gentle rolls offered a forgiving embrace, allowing us to learn, laugh, and ride the tides of camaraderie.  As I reflect on my surf trip to Imsouane, I am reminded that the true beauty of such journeys lies not just in the waves conquered but in the moments of stillness between them.

surf with amigas Morocco
Photos by Sarah Petrarca

In Imsouane, I found a tale as old as time—that of connection, exploration, and sisterhood that will forever echo in the recesses of my soul. For me, this retreat lit a divine spark and truly inculcated my obsession with surfing. However, this trip was not just about conquering waves; it was about forging connections, building confidence, and celebrating the strength that comes from embracing the sea together.  While I am still daydreaming about the waves I had, it is the people I met and grew with that were my favorite part. Hand to heart, I can truly say I walked away with more than a few surf lessons, but women I am proud to call friends.

surf with amigas Morocco
Photos by Sarah Petrarca

To join Surf With Amigas for the surf adventure of a lifetime in southern Morocco, CLICK HERE.

3 Ways Women’s Surf Fashion is Revolutionizing Surf Culture

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If you’ve been surfing for over 10 years, chances are you remember the days when decent, stylish bikinis that stayed put in the surf were extremely difficult to come by. Or maybe, like me, you even had to succumb to buying a men’s wetsuit because of quality, availability, or sizing issues. Up until recently, the women’s surf-wear options on the market were extremely limited. Thankfully as more and more women have discovered surfing and infiltrated the predominantly male industry, we have demanded that new surf apparel standards be set.

This week we had a chance to chat with Amanda Chinchelli, founder of The Seea, a women’s surf and swimwear brand. Seea was born out of necessity. Amanda, like many other women surfers, had been searching for suits that “were comfortable for surfing, but didn’t look too sporty or skimpy. Something that looked good while working great for surfing.” And so, born from a dream and a thrifted sewing machine in San Clemente, California, Seea was formed. Seea was one of the first women’s surf brands that chose to forge a new path within the industry, creating suits by women, for women that challenge the status quo and balance surf function and style.

“It’s so important that we decide what beauty is. what we put out there guides the young generation to see what is beauty and what is not. We have a huge responsibility.”

surf with amigas retreats collab seea

Here are 3 ways Seea, along with other up and coming women’s surf companies, are raising the bar and setting new expectations and opportunities in the industry:

1. Making Beauty and Body Image Relatable and Real

Amanda felt the pressure to “elevate [her] brand” by using professional models and photographers, but found that it didn’t work for the message she wanted to convey. She wanted to align Seea’s image with the brand ethos. Seea has been a leading example in the female surf industry that represents different body types, ages, ethnicities, and sexual/gender identification, be it through their model choice and marketing or diverse swimwear lines.

2. Sustainable materials and Local Production 

The fashion industry, like the surf industry, is inherently wasteful. But like Seea, who chooses to produce all suits in-house in California, more and more brands are deciding to produce more small-batch, locally made products and use recycled materials instead of shipping manufacturing overseas. In a time when greenwashing is becoming ever-apparent, it pays to know exactly how brands are choosing to source their materials and what your dollars are supporting.

surf with amigas collab seea

3. Creating Community 

Now more than ever, women’s surf companies are creating new cultures and communities with the messages they convey in their brand images. Whether it be through blog posts, community forums or in-person beach meet-ups, brands want to genuinely connect with real people and showcase unique experiences and perspectives within the surfing space. More collaboration has created community connection and elevates opportunity in surfing for those who may have previously found the industry unwelcoming or intimidating.

To hear more from Amanda and the story of Seea, listen to our chat on Second Breakfast, a podcast with Surf With Amigas, found on Apple Podcasts or Spotify.

5 Must Have Items to Bring on Your Morocco Retreat

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Stuck in a bind packing for your next surf trip? We’ve got you covered. Don’t forget these 5 essential items on your next cold water surf trip or Morocco retreat!

surf with amigas morocco retreat

1. Wetsuit and Surf Hat

The water temperature varies throughout the year in Morocco, and although a mid-day session can warrant a 3/2 or spring-suit in the summer and fall months, it’s also good to come prepared with another 4/3 for colder sessions or winter surfing. We always recommend having an extra (dry) suit, so bringing at least 2 wetsuits is a good option! A surf hat is also essential at our Morocco location, the afternoon glare can be gnarly. Protect your eyes!

PRO tip: Separate your suits in your luggage! One in a carry-on bag, the other in your checked luggage. There’s nothing worse than travel delays screwing your surf plans.

2. A Good Conditioner or other Leave-in Hair Product

Unless you already have an impeccable surf-hair care routine (or could care less about your salty strands) we recommend bringing some heavy-duty hair products. Between multiple sessions a day, the dry climate and strong sun, chances are your hair could use some more lovin’. Your best conditioner or other leave-in moisturizing product should do the trick.

PRO tip: Buy some Argan oil when you’re here and give yourself a hair mask for the ultimate hair-lift.

3. Zinc Sunscreen

If you treasure your skin, the goal for your vacay should be to return home paler than you before. But seriously, Zinc is without a doubt the best UV skin protectant. Plan to bring lots of it and don’t forget about the hands or neck when applying! Check out our Amiga recommendations blog post for specific brands.

4. Cozy Clothes

Bring on the fuzzy slippers or Ugg boots, warm beanies and puffy jackets! Although this location tends to bring warm, sunny days, the early mornings and nights can be nippy, especially after a surf!

PRO tip: Wear your cozy outfit (puff jacket, Uggs) during the travel to save space in your suitcase.

5. Your Favorite Travel Game

There’s nothing quite better than coming in from an epic surf and getting to gaming with your amigas. Let your competitive side shine or just enjoy some cruisy camaraderie with your crew. Some SWA favorite games include Bananagrams, Set, Backgammon and any ‘ole card game.

4 Ways to Prepare For Your Next Retreat: With The SWA Collective

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We are so incredibly stoked to finally introduce a long-time project, The Surf With Amigas Collective. The Collective is everything you love about Surf With Amigas retreats, made more accessible. With this new platform, we aim to create entertaining yet informative content and tutorials designed to empower and educate women, in surfing and in life. We’re also striving to highlight the personal stories and adventures of members within our surfing community, allowing us to connect more deeply and spread stoke while also showcasing the raw and real female surf experience.

Whether you’re just starting your surf journey, want to get in surf shape, or are ready to unleash your inner surf nerd and learn more, the Collective is a great place to start. Here are 5 sets of videos we recommend watching for those who are newer to surfing and looking to prep for their next surf trip or SWA retreat:

1. Being Kind to Yourself and Other Tips for First Timers

We know surfing is hard! That’s why here at the collective, we’re there for you every step of the way. Surfing, like life, is full of crests and troughs, ups and downs. It’s easy to put lots of pressure on ourselves to perform, especially when we only have one week of surf vacation time. Xiquiu has been a surf instructor at Surf With Amigas for years. This video is an excerpt from her beginner lesson where she talks about the best mindset to have when starting out in surfing, as well as a few other helpful tips to set you up for success.

surf with amigas retreats, collective

2. Foundations Popup

The popup is one of the most important aspects of having a successful ride down the line. Even if you feel confident with your popup, it’s always good to practice and keep your muscle memory engaged (especially if you aren’t surfing often!). In addition to watching this video, try filming your pop up and see if you can catch any quirks. Having a strong base of surfing skills is critical in helping create good habits and fuels the froth to keep progressing!

surf with amigas collective, online platform

3. Beginner Workout & 4 Best Stretches for Surfers

Like our head yoga instructor Reesie says, motion is lotion. You’re bound to be moving and grooving A LOT on your next surf trip, so let your body ease into it by incorporating these stretches and workouts into your routine! These stretches and workouts are made for surfers, by surfers, and so target key muscles that you’ll be using in the water.

4. Meet Your Instructors

Finally, just in case you haven’t yet experienced the epic bad-assery of our team first-hand, let us clue you in. We have an absolutely amazing team of surf instructors. They’re funny, knowledgeable, utterly rad women and we want you to get to know them! Learn about their personal surf journeys, struggles and life philosophies before starting your next retreat or online course. 

surf with amigas retreats, online platform

 

Use These 3 Techniques to Catch More Waves In a Crowded Lineup

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From Morocco to Malibu and beyond, you’re bound to find crowds of surfers dotting the coast. Of course, most of us dream of corduroy lines that expand across our favorite break without another soul in sight. But the impending reality is: as more humans discover the incredible experience of wiggling their bodies across waves and technology’s mighty roots sink deeply into even the most remote corners of the world, uncrowded lineups become more obsolete.

In this post we’re unpacking the top 3 techniques you can use to more effectively navigate those busy lineups, maximize your wave count, lose the stress and have more fun!

1. know before you go

Take a bit of time on the beach to survey the lineup before you paddle out. Drink your coffee and take note of the dynamics and types of surfers out there. Ask yourself, where are the shredders sitting? Is there anyone who looks like they’re still learning to surf? Choose a place to sit in the lineup where you can optimize your wave catching ability while remaining safe and within your limits. If you have doubts regarding the conditions or feel high anxiety or unsafe entering the water, know your limits. Don’t go out, or wait for a friend or instructor to paddle out with.

how to catch more waves in a crowded lineup

2. Sit wide or on the inside

In a crowded lineup, it’s all about finding those open “holes” in the lineup where no one is sitting. Just because lots of people are sitting in one area doesn’t necessarily mean that’s the best place for you. Sometimes sitting wide or on the inside allows you to pick off some cute ones, or even catch a party wave (remember that the person with priority calls a party wave)! Even if the waves may not be as consistent in areas away from the crowd, you have a higher chance of grabbing a few to yourself. Finally, always keep your head on a swivel and be ready to turn and burn in case someone else falls off a wave, or ends up going straight in the whitewash. 

3. Play it safe – be ready to abort mission 

If you feel a collision is imminent, you see someone quickly moving down the line or a massive crowd in front of you, be ready to abort mission and try for another wave when the next set comes. How do you abort mission safely? Lean and/or move back on your board and dig your legs in the water. This will lift the nose of your board out of the water and essentially put the brakes on. If you’re already moving too quickly to try this maneuver, straighten your board out and take the wave in the whitewash instead of navigating the crowd. Avoid locking eyes with someone in front of you while riding a wave — or you’ll likely go in their direction. On the other hand, if you’re paddling out and think a surfer is going to run into you, just turtle roll. Dinged boards are better than dinged bodies.

Finally, remember that surfing, especially in crowds, is a constant learning process. Give yourself some grace when you run into difficult situations and don’t let a bad interaction ruin your session. If you find yourself getting frustrated, go to the beach and reset or try to find a place in the lineup to sit by yourself for a moment. Take a breath and give it another try!

Retreat Insights, Packing Lists, and All the Things I Wish I’d Said in My SWA Podcast: with Jacquie Maupin

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7 time SWA retreat-goer Jacquie Maupin has learned to appreciate the small wins in surfing; she considers herself a vacation surfer and perpetual advanced beginner. The post that follows is written by Jacquie as a supplement to her podcast episode, it includes everything that went unsaid on air with Second Breakfast. For those looking to learn more about vacation surfing and the unique experiences we thrive to cultivate at Surf With Amigas, keep reading!

Halfway through recording “Second Breakfast,” my first-ever podcast, Holly Beck, Surf With Amigas (SWA) founder and co-owner, asked me a heavy-duty question, and I was…at a loss. I hate to admit it, but I froze. Twice. And then I fibbed.Three flubs in my first podcast. Nice. I froze because when I sat myself next to Holly – former pro surfer, entrepreneur – and next to other interview guests – the Big Wave surfer, the shark-attack survivor – I felt like the mere mortal in this podcast line-up. Mere mortal as in: I surf 10 to 15 days a year. As in, I live in DC, which is a four-hour drive from the closest surf break where conditions are notoriously fickle. As in, I’ve been surfing for 10 years, and I have yet to consistently paddle into my own wave.

With the equivalent of an SWA merit badge as a seven-time Amiga, I am the classic Vacation Surfer. We recorded the podcast just after I’d returned from nearly a month touring Indonesia. There, I surfed the mythical “T-Land” break with the Amigas. The post-trip adjustment took longer than expected, though. The sensory overload of Indonesia wrung me out. I felt exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. Still, I had pictures to show! Stories to tell! I couldn’t shut up about “Indo.” So, when Holly asked me to record the podcast, I was pumped. And then I froze. Now, with some rest and reflection – and away from the pressure of a microphone – here’s what I wish I’d shared in the podcast.

Holly’s first “Freeze Question”: What’s the craziest thing that’s happened to me on an Amigas trip? This, from the woman who nonchalantly describes starting SWA while living “feral” in remote Nicaragua. My crazy stories? Hmmm. The giant scorpion catching me “indisposed” in the baño at the southern Costa Rica site? The super-sized flying grasshopper dive-bombing my room in northern Costa Rica? Not exactly “crazy.”

I’ve since realized I can’t answer that question because my Amigas trips haven’t been over-the-top, literal cliffhangers. They’ve taken shape In an entirely different way. Rather, each trip is sprinkled with delightful or exhilarating surprises. Surprises now eternally imprinted on my brain – bright, sparkly, and one-of-a-kind.

Like the Thanksgiving-week camp in northern Costa Rica when the resort hostess surprised our group with an authentic holiday meal. Or when SWA co-owner Jackie George threw us campers a “Galentine’s Day” celebration during a southern Costa Rica camp that fell on February 14th . And in Mexico, the time we tiptoed past napping crocodiles to get to the beach. Or in northern Nicaragua, when we tried something called “volcano boarding,” by hurtling seated down the side of a dormant lava-maker with nothing to protect us besides a makeshift wooden toboggan; thick, orange, cotton jumpsuits; plastic painters’ goggles; and the heels of our sneakers to dig into the hillside’s black grit to brake.

And then there’s Morocco, my favorite Amigas surf spot, with its wide, undeveloped bay surrounded by sand-colored cliffs, and where I caught my longest ride yet. I just kept gliding along the wave, while shouting in my head, “I’m doing it! I’m really doing it!” all the way to the beach. For me, that long ride represented a hard-won achievement. I actually choked up in the whitewash afterwards. It’s these moments that I will not trade any day for “crazy.” Holly’s second “Freeze Question” was even harder: How has surfing changed my life? During the recording, I fumbled for a response, landing clumsily on “finding my ‘thing.’” What I really wanted to say was, “Can I get back to you on that?” In retrospect, I can answer this pretty quickly: Surfing hasn’t changed my daily life. At least, not yet! I mean, I’m still working my office job in D.C.

Perhaps the question I can better expand on is: What have I learned from surfing? Easy. Three things. First, my body keeps doing more than I think it can. Each surf trip, Mother Ocean delivers the beat-down. I get banged up and bruised. My muscles ache. And yet, my body holds up. I’m exhausted, but I feel strong, and alive, and proud of myself.

Next, the first time I heard another Amiga describe herself as a “vacation surfer” I felt
immensely….relieved. I thought, “Bingo! That’s what I am! It has a name!”
Identifying as a Vacation Surfer allowed me to be OK with not having become a big-time charger After. All. Those. Amigas. Trips. I learned calling myself a Vacation Surfer let me shake off the self-induced pressure and shame. And the last thing I’ve learned? Here, I struggle to share my thoughts in a way that doesn’t sound cheesy or well-worn. But with that…

On a wave, my board and I feel synced with the ocean. It’s a brief flash of beauty and joy and accomplishment and freedom. I imagine this is what flying feels like. And this feeling reveals a glimpse into what drives surfers’ obsession – the hunger, the excitement, the fear, and my favorite – the euphoria.

And then finally, as the podcast wrapped up, there was the Fib, which unexpectedly appeared with a new question. I hadn’t planned on fibbing. The query was simple enough: What special items do I pack for my surf trips? My mind instantly raced. Was I going to tell the Holly Beck, who’s jetted around the world for years with her boards and her bag, that I actually had a three-page packing list…in Excel? Heck no. Instead, I offered her one measly “hot tip”: packing cubes. Ugh. Snooze alert.

Truth is, I may be “just” a Vacation Surfer, but I am an expert travel packer. I’m also a Boy Scout; I like to be prepared. I wrote the Excel packing list because I kept forgetting what I’d packed on the prior surf trip. The list includes my “surf wardrobe” because I’ve figured out which items work, and how many, for a week-long surf trip. Besides swimwear and basics, here are the things I pack:

Jacquie’s Amiga Trip Essentials

  • Rashguards and surf leggings for sun and scrape protection.
  • Surf booties for my soft, city feet.
  • Small purse-size notebook for video-coaching notes. I’ve collected them from multiple trips.
  •  Portable Kleenex packs, and handwipes, because you never know what the bathroom situation will be during travel. See: squat toilets.
  • Eye mask and earplugs. On Amigas trips, there always seems to be a fiesta thumping late at night, or some rooster going off at 4am.
  • Pepto tabs and a prescription of azithromycin in case of a serious stomach trouble. Tums, in case of too many margaritas…
  • Pain reliever, and a cold-and-allergy-meds starter pack, because some Amigas camps are a multi-hour drive to the nearest pharmacy.
  • Icy Hot and a sampler of first aid creams – anti-itch, anti-burn, antibiotic.
  • Extra contact lenses
  • Gallon-size Ziploc bags, which are useful for everything – snacks, receipts, liquids, souvenirs.
  • Large plastic shopping bag for dirty or wet clothes.
  •  Washcloth. Some cultures don’t prefer them.
  • Covid tests, especially if going someplace remote.
  • Back-up phone charger and electric plug converters.
  • Two or three wire hangers. Amigas’ accommodations are clean and comfortable, but they can be spare. I like to hang a few things.
  • Thin, smaller, extra backpack for taking gear to the beach, or carrying bulky souvenirs (think: packs of Costa Rican coffee).

I fit all this in one carry-on suitcase, and one large backpack! And, yes, I’m happy to share the full list. Just don’t tell Holly. And with writing this blog, dear reader, I am now unburdened from my post-podcast guilt. Of freezing. And fibbing. I’ve even booked my next SWA trip.
Who knows? Maybe I’ll meet you at a future camp. If that’s the case, I’ll be the Vacation Surfer digging in hard, still trying to catch my own wave.

These are the Top Surf Gear Recs from the SWA Community

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When planning for a surf trip or retreat, packing often becomes overwhelming. There are so many options on the market for surf gear that it’s easy to get lost in the sauce of potential purchases. In this post, we’ve broken down our recommendations, straight from the Amigas community, so you can lose the stress next time you find yourself with an overflowing shopping cart.

SUNSCREEN

All Good – Overall best, multi-use sunscreen. The face sunscreen has a creamy, easy to apply consistency and is sold in an aluminum tin. There are tinted and non-tinted options. Many options for face and body, plus a sunscreen stick that is bound to be your lip’s personal guardian angel. It’s great reef safe, chemical free sunscreen. Our favorite part about this company: it’s female-founded and made in California, USA!

Avasol – We rate this sunscreen best for face, a mineral sunscreen with zero waste packaging! Not to mention, all products are USDA Certified 100% Biobased – that means it’s
completely natural, with no fillers, synthetics or preservatives.

Some other sunscreen favorites include: Summer Lotion, Naif Care and Sunbum mineral

HATS

Kaiola – Our all time favorite surf hat, impeccable design and engineering with small yet strong straps — this hat stays on and keeps you protected. Now available in bucket, visor, and baseball cap styles!

Some other favorites include: Sunward Bound and Dakine

BATHING SUITS

Salt Gypsy – Ethically made Australian swimwear brand, we especially love their surf shorts and rashguards (many come in turtleneck style for extra neck coverage!).

Seea – We rate Seea best for its one piece surf suits, rash guards, unique vintage-inspired styles and great prints! Suits are all California made.

September the Line – Very high quality surf suits, rash guards, and leggings that last long. Timeless, elegant and sustainable!

Dkoko – An amazing women-owned and operated bikini company based out of Costa Rica! Some of our favorite items from this brand include their onesie surf suits (pictured below), and surf leggings (made with a super helpful drawstring so they never fall down).

Jolyn – Our amigas say these suits stay on, have awesome drawstring bottoms and are sold at great price points!

Left on Friday – Long lasting swimwear that performs well in strong surf! Our Amigas recommend the Hi Tide bottoms and Sunday top.

Sensiswim – Our amigas say these suits stay on and last for years!

Carve Designs – Great, supportive tops for bigger chests. Many size options and women-owned!

Sweaty Betty – Our amigas highly recommend Sweaty Betty one pieces.

Oysurf – We love Oysurf for their fun color options and bikini styles that are supportive and snug in the surf.