Tag: learn to surf

Retreat Insights, Packing Lists, and All the Things I Wish I’d Said in My SWA Podcast: with Jacquie Maupin

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surf with amigas retreats

7 time SWA retreat-goer Jacquie Maupin has learned to appreciate the small wins in surfing; she considers herself a vacation surfer and perpetual advanced beginner. The post that follows is written by Jacquie as a supplement to her podcast episode, it includes everything that went unsaid on air with Second Breakfast. For those looking to learn more about vacation surfing and the unique experiences we thrive to cultivate at Surf With Amigas, keep reading!

Halfway through recording “Second Breakfast,” my first-ever podcast, Holly Beck, Surf With Amigas (SWA) founder and co-owner, asked me a heavy-duty question, and I was…at a loss. I hate to admit it, but I froze. Twice. And then I fibbed.Three flubs in my first podcast. Nice. I froze because when I sat myself next to Holly – former pro surfer, entrepreneur – and next to other interview guests – the Big Wave surfer, the shark-attack survivor – I felt like the mere mortal in this podcast line-up. Mere mortal as in: I surf 10 to 15 days a year. As in, I live in DC, which is a four-hour drive from the closest surf break where conditions are notoriously fickle. As in, I’ve been surfing for 10 years, and I have yet to consistently paddle into my own wave.

With the equivalent of an SWA merit badge as a seven-time Amiga, I am the classic Vacation Surfer. We recorded the podcast just after I’d returned from nearly a month touring Indonesia. There, I surfed the mythical “T-Land” break with the Amigas. The post-trip adjustment took longer than expected, though. The sensory overload of Indonesia wrung me out. I felt exhausted and exhilarated at the same time. Still, I had pictures to show! Stories to tell! I couldn’t shut up about “Indo.” So, when Holly asked me to record the podcast, I was pumped. And then I froze. Now, with some rest and reflection – and away from the pressure of a microphone – here’s what I wish I’d shared in the podcast.

Holly’s first “Freeze Question”: What’s the craziest thing that’s happened to me on an Amigas trip? This, from the woman who nonchalantly describes starting SWA while living “feral” in remote Nicaragua. My crazy stories? Hmmm. The giant scorpion catching me “indisposed” in the baño at the southern Costa Rica site? The super-sized flying grasshopper dive-bombing my room in northern Costa Rica? Not exactly “crazy.”

I’ve since realized I can’t answer that question because my Amigas trips haven’t been over-the-top, literal cliffhangers. They’ve taken shape In an entirely different way. Rather, each trip is sprinkled with delightful or exhilarating surprises. Surprises now eternally imprinted on my brain – bright, sparkly, and one-of-a-kind.

Like the Thanksgiving-week camp in northern Costa Rica when the resort hostess surprised our group with an authentic holiday meal. Or when SWA co-owner Jackie George threw us campers a “Galentine’s Day” celebration during a southern Costa Rica camp that fell on February 14th . And in Mexico, the time we tiptoed past napping crocodiles to get to the beach. Or in northern Nicaragua, when we tried something called “volcano boarding,” by hurtling seated down the side of a dormant lava-maker with nothing to protect us besides a makeshift wooden toboggan; thick, orange, cotton jumpsuits; plastic painters’ goggles; and the heels of our sneakers to dig into the hillside’s black grit to brake.

And then there’s Morocco, my favorite Amigas surf spot, with its wide, undeveloped bay surrounded by sand-colored cliffs, and where I caught my longest ride yet. I just kept gliding along the wave, while shouting in my head, “I’m doing it! I’m really doing it!” all the way to the beach. For me, that long ride represented a hard-won achievement. I actually choked up in the whitewash afterwards. It’s these moments that I will not trade any day for “crazy.” Holly’s second “Freeze Question” was even harder: How has surfing changed my life? During the recording, I fumbled for a response, landing clumsily on “finding my ‘thing.’” What I really wanted to say was, “Can I get back to you on that?” In retrospect, I can answer this pretty quickly: Surfing hasn’t changed my daily life. At least, not yet! I mean, I’m still working my office job in D.C.

Perhaps the question I can better expand on is: What have I learned from surfing? Easy. Three things. First, my body keeps doing more than I think it can. Each surf trip, Mother Ocean delivers the beat-down. I get banged up and bruised. My muscles ache. And yet, my body holds up. I’m exhausted, but I feel strong, and alive, and proud of myself.

Next, the first time I heard another Amiga describe herself as a “vacation surfer” I felt
immensely….relieved. I thought, “Bingo! That’s what I am! It has a name!”
Identifying as a Vacation Surfer allowed me to be OK with not having become a big-time charger After. All. Those. Amigas. Trips. I learned calling myself a Vacation Surfer let me shake off the self-induced pressure and shame. And the last thing I’ve learned? Here, I struggle to share my thoughts in a way that doesn’t sound cheesy or well-worn. But with that…

On a wave, my board and I feel synced with the ocean. It’s a brief flash of beauty and joy and accomplishment and freedom. I imagine this is what flying feels like. And this feeling reveals a glimpse into what drives surfers’ obsession – the hunger, the excitement, the fear, and my favorite – the euphoria.

And then finally, as the podcast wrapped up, there was the Fib, which unexpectedly appeared with a new question. I hadn’t planned on fibbing. The query was simple enough: What special items do I pack for my surf trips? My mind instantly raced. Was I going to tell the Holly Beck, who’s jetted around the world for years with her boards and her bag, that I actually had a three-page packing list…in Excel? Heck no. Instead, I offered her one measly “hot tip”: packing cubes. Ugh. Snooze alert.

Truth is, I may be “just” a Vacation Surfer, but I am an expert travel packer. I’m also a Boy Scout; I like to be prepared. I wrote the Excel packing list because I kept forgetting what I’d packed on the prior surf trip. The list includes my “surf wardrobe” because I’ve figured out which items work, and how many, for a week-long surf trip. Besides swimwear and basics, here are the things I pack:

Jacquie’s Amiga Trip Essentials

  • Rashguards and surf leggings for sun and scrape protection.
  • Surf booties for my soft, city feet.
  • Small purse-size notebook for video-coaching notes. I’ve collected them from multiple trips.
  •  Portable Kleenex packs, and handwipes, because you never know what the bathroom situation will be during travel. See: squat toilets.
  • Eye mask and earplugs. On Amigas trips, there always seems to be a fiesta thumping late at night, or some rooster going off at 4am.
  • Pepto tabs and a prescription of azithromycin in case of a serious stomach trouble. Tums, in case of too many margaritas…
  • Pain reliever, and a cold-and-allergy-meds starter pack, because some Amigas camps are a multi-hour drive to the nearest pharmacy.
  • Icy Hot and a sampler of first aid creams – anti-itch, anti-burn, antibiotic.
  • Extra contact lenses
  • Gallon-size Ziploc bags, which are useful for everything – snacks, receipts, liquids, souvenirs.
  • Large plastic shopping bag for dirty or wet clothes.
  •  Washcloth. Some cultures don’t prefer them.
  • Covid tests, especially if going someplace remote.
  • Back-up phone charger and electric plug converters.
  • Two or three wire hangers. Amigas’ accommodations are clean and comfortable, but they can be spare. I like to hang a few things.
  • Thin, smaller, extra backpack for taking gear to the beach, or carrying bulky souvenirs (think: packs of Costa Rican coffee).

I fit all this in one carry-on suitcase, and one large backpack! And, yes, I’m happy to share the full list. Just don’t tell Holly. And with writing this blog, dear reader, I am now unburdened from my post-podcast guilt. Of freezing. And fibbing. I’ve even booked my next SWA trip.
Who knows? Maybe I’ll meet you at a future camp. If that’s the case, I’ll be the Vacation Surfer digging in hard, still trying to catch my own wave.

Find Out How Much You’ll Really Surf at Your SWA Retreat!

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Surf With Amigas

When you sign up for a surf retreat, you expect to surf your brains out, and as passionate surfers, we really get it. At Surf With Amigas, rest assured, every aspect of your retreat will be planned around the surf. We are frothing surfers that love the water as much as you do!

FAQ: IS THERE A SCHEDULED TIME TO SURF?

ANSWER: We do schedule our paddle out times. Why? This is how we assure that you get to the best surf spot for your ability with the best possible conditions! For each scheduled session we also coordinate with videographers to make sure all your awesome rides are captured on video to be reviewed and enjoyed later. The surf coaches will join you at all of these scheduled sessions, where you’ll receive in-water instruction, coaching, and support. 

The scheduled surf sessions have no specific end-time. We’ll stay in the water as long as conditions permit or until you’re ready to go. We might give you a head’s up that the tide is really dropped out, breakfast is now ready and yoga will be soon, to encourage you to find that last wave in, but if you just want to keep the salt-water soak going, as long as there is no safety issue, we’ll support you in doing that.

FAQ: HOW ARE THE SURF SESSIONS PLANNED?

ANSWER: Our team’s expert knowledge of the various surf spots in the area is used to plan the surf sessions around a variety of factors including tide, wind, swell size/direction, avoiding crowd, plus the surf ability of each surfer. It’s a complicated matrix sometimes, particularly because we will usually split up the group by ability level and have people going in different directions, but it’s important to us to make sure that everybody has access to waves that are suitable to their ability and everyone has the opportunity to be in the water during the best conditions possible.

A typical retreat day might look something like this:

5am coffee and first breakfast
6am SURF
9am Second (Hot) breakfast
10am optional second surf or Classroom session or Chill time
12pm lunch
2pm yoga
4pm adventure activity, classroom session, sunset surf!
6pm dinner

Settle in and take a break from having to worry about schedules and planning. We’ve got you covered and you’ll be surfed out and satisfied by the end of the week!

Surfboard Options at SWA Retreats: What To Know Before You Go

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Frequently Asked Questions:

“Can I try multiple surfboards during the retreat?

What surfboards will be available?

Do I need to bring my own surfboard?”

At all of our retreat locations, and particularly in Northern Nicaragua + Southern Costa Rica, we have large quivers with boards of all shapes and sizes to choose from. You can most certainly collaborate with our coaches to find the perfect board for you, and if you want to try multiple boards, just let us know! From shortboards, fish, and mid-lengths, to high performance longboards or more classic-style logs, we aim to have a well rounded bunch of boards for all lady surfers’ preferences. 

We don’t use soft-tops – Contrary to a lot of surf camps and schools, we do not believe in learning on soft-tops. Many surf schools that use soft tops use them because they are cheaper, more durable, and if there is a large student to instructor ratio, everyone can stay safe. The downside to using soft tops is that the fat rails and overly flexible board and fins, perform differently than a standard fiberglass board. Our philosophy is not to simply give you a “surf experience” but to teach you the tools to be able to go home and paddle out confidently on your own. We will teach you how to manage the board safely and you will progress in your surfing faster.

Here’s how it usually works:

First, when you sign up for a retreat and fill out your Amiga profile,  we will ask for a few personal surf details including:

  1. Prior surf experience if any (ability level, frequency, where you surf)
  2. Board preference if you have one (size, shape)
  3. Height + weight (to determine the most fitting board)

*if you have any questions about specific boards, be sure to email your retreat leader before your retreat begins.

Then, with this information our experienced surf coaches pre-assign the board(s) they think will most suit your surf level + preferences. When you arrive to the retreat you may start on that board, or pick another. You’ll always have a chance to swap throughout the week with the available boards at the retreat. We recommend to make a note when you fill out your surf details sheet before the retreat if you’re interested in trying multiple or very specific types of boards- so that our team can pull a few aside for you! *IF you are a short-boarder, we highly recommend traveling to the retreat with your own shred sled as our shortboard quiver is not as diverse as our quiver starting at 7′ long.

Surf With Amigas Costa Rica

We will support you in reaching your surfing goals and assist in choosing the most appropriate surfboard(s) to move towards those goals! At Surf With Amigas we invest in offering high-quality surfboards for ladies of ALL surf levels across all of our retreat locations.

Have any questions about surfboard options at a specific retreat location? ASK HERE!

 

Dirt Roads, Salty Hair and Good Waves: The Story of Surf With Amigas

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“The community of women surfers and women travelers is really special and so in starting this podcast we hope to really build more ways for people to stay connected and stay a part of that community.”

Surf with Amigas (SWA) has joined the world of podcasters, under the name “Second Breakfast”! If you’ve been on a retreat with us, you know we are big fans of Second Breakfast. We believe in that extra nourishing hot meal shared with new friends post-surf, where we break down what happened in the morning session. We pour a second cup of coffee and get into engaging discussions about life, current events, and of course, all things surfing. Amigas are smart, successful, inspiring women of all ages with interesting stories and world views. We’re not afraid to tackle controversial topics. We appreciate unique perspectives that challenge us to think differently. This podcast brings those discussions to a wider audience to be enjoyed at any time and any place, second cup of coffee optional.

In our inaugural episode, Holly Beck and Jackie George, co-creators of SWA, share their backgrounds in surfing and their journey to create all women’s surf and yoga retreats. From the early days of creating spaces for women’s surfing in Central America, the dirtbag dusty days of no internet and thatched roofs, to ultimately running 8 retreat locations worldwide. Holly and Jackie take us back in time; they share some of their travel experiences and moments that solidified both their friendship and business partnership. You’ll also get a sneak peak of some of their goals and insights as to what SWA may look like moving forwards. Above all, you’ll learn the story and purpose behind Surf With Amigas’ mission, why Holly and Jackie aspire to inspire women and help them step outside their comfort zone, in surfing and in life.

A PREVIEW OF THE FIRST EPISODE:

After stepping away from her career as a professional surfer, Holly thought,

Continue reading “Dirt Roads, Salty Hair and Good Waves: The Story of Surf With Amigas”

River and Sea – A Life of Reading Water

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After adding our first ever Adventure Retreat to the schedule (a 3-day whitewater rafting and camping trip in California) we decided to catch up with fellow surfer, kayaker, and yoga teacher, Saanti Steyer. In the excerpt below, Saanti recounts all the things that she’s learned by spending time in rivers and oceans, and the synergy of two sports- surfing and white water rafting.

As I’m floating along the river I feel a sense of calm, the river is calm. The water is peacefully moving downstream, swiftly but with ease. It reminds me of sitting out in the ocean, those moments in-between sets, dangling off my surfboard, body submerged in water, waiting for waves to come. The water goes quiet for a moment, resting, and I take in my surroundings, the beauty of the California Trinities seen at a river’s pace. I think back to the dense Southern Costa Rican jungle being lit up by the first light of day.

Southern Costa Rica Surf With Amigas

This view of land from water, from river, from ocean, it’s my favorite thing.

Continue reading “River and Sea – A Life of Reading Water”

Breaking Cultural Barriers – SWA Sponsors Young Costa Rican Girl Dreaming of Going Pro

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We are so proud to announce the sponsorship of up-and-coming Costa Rican surfer girl, Nazareth (“Naza”) Del Mar.

Naza is a 10 year old shredder from Pavones, Costa Rica that has dreams of becoming a professional surfer. The SWA sponsorship offers Naza’s family financial support, giving their daughter a chance to travel to different locations and compete in the national circuit of Costa Rica, while also being professionally coached by SWA instructor, Gabrielle Guyon. With this sponsorship, we hope to inspire girls and women of all ages and nationalities to achieve their surfing dreams and inspire others.

photo by @holalenita

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT NAZA

Nazareth Del Mar Velasquez is the oldest of two girls. Her mother, Sylvia, was born and raised Costa Rica, and her father, Jonathan, is from Nicaragua. Nazareth only started surfing three years ago and participated in her first local competition just a year ago, but her love for the ocean comes from before she was born.

Nazareth was an active baby in the womb, constantly moving and kicking her mom’s belly. Her mom Sylvia found that whenever she entered the ocean, Naza would instantly cease her kicking. Since then, Nazareth has felt attracted to the sea but until recently, was never allowed to enter the water. Jonathan, her dad, has an enormous fear of the ocean and marine life. He doesn’t know how to swim and believed it safest for his family to avoid the sea.

Naza and her family. Photo by @holalenita

During the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic, Naza’s parents lost their jobs.  With more and more time spent inside at home, they realized that there is more to life than work. They wanted to enrich their lives, take advantage of every day, and learn to be more open-minded and flexible. Wanting to ensure their kids also learned this valuable lesson, they realized they could no longer keep them out of the water, especially with a perfect left point-break in their backyard. Jonathan began to teach Naza the importance of bravery by overcoming his own fear of the ocean. Three years ago, they started taking surfboards with them into the water and eventually learned to surf together. Nazareth’s love for surfing and sharing the waves with her dad grew daily.

Continue reading “Breaking Cultural Barriers – SWA Sponsors Young Costa Rican Girl Dreaming of Going Pro”

A Guru’s Guide to Surf Skincare

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As surfers, we’re constantly in the sun. Most of us are accustomed to that fried chicken feeling you get after surfing for a few hours, those sessions where you kept claiming “just one more,” even while your skin roasts, turning alarming shades of red.

Although I love living close to the equator (8 degrees to be precise), my skin protests. My Irish ancestors weren’t doing me any favors. I just wasn’t built for the life of sun’s out buns out.

Because I refuse to stop doing what I love, in recent years I’ve finally started to prioritize skincare. On one of my last retreats in Nicaragua, I hit the jackpot of skincare wisdom. Bunched around the lunch table after surfing, a group of Amigas and I started chatting about our skin routines and efforts to keep our skin feeling safe. We began firing questions at our Amiga, Malissa, who works as an Esthetician.

Amiga squad in Northern Nicaragua
What follows are some of Malissa’s hacks to perfect your skin routine. Malissa emphasized that we’re all bound to age, form wrinkles, stretch marks and spots on our skin. We shouldn’t sacrifice living the way we want in an attempt to prevent the inevitable! But we can better protect ourselves with the tools (most importantly hats, sunscreen and rashguards) to keep our skin supple and protected.

Why do you think skin care is important, does your routine change when you spend more time in the sun? Did your routine change this week on the retreat?

I think skin care is very important. It clears skin impurities off the skin, helps keep the skin clear, helps with signs of aging, and you need to use SPF to help prevent skin cancer. When I’m in the sun more I definitely am using more SPF, I will use lighter feeling products, and alway have a hat on.

My routine was definitely a little more minimal this week.   More SPF, just one serum, light moisturizer and no exfoliants.  I just wanted to have fun this week and not think too much about my skin. I was also tired at the end of the night and I wanted less to do.

What are the best preventive steps you can take daily to protect your skin?

A good cleanser, exfoliant, toner, moisturizer, and SPF! Once you have that, you can think about adding in a vitamin C serum, eye cream, and a retinol.

Continue reading “A Guru’s Guide to Surf Skincare”

Stuck With Fear From A Past Surf Injury? Holly Beck Offers Suggestions To Overcome!

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Lately, I’ve received a few emails from potential clients who mention that they experience a lingering fear  from a past injury. That situation seems to be really common and brought to mind the story of an Amiga that I met back in October in Morocco.

I was in Morocco on day 1 of a Surf With Amigas Holistic Surf Coaching Retreat, just getting to know the guests and starting to form a mental image of each participant, her goals, and how I could be most helpful. The vast majority of our guests use boards from our quiver to avoid having to travel with a board bag but one of the participants, we’ll call her “Sarah”, had brought her own – a Takayama mid-length. I could tell by our chit-chat about the conditions even before we paddled out that she knew how to surf. She presented as strong and confident, walking down the hill to the waist-high peeling rights.

In the water, she paddled assertively, positioning herself well, taking off with perfect timing, and maneuvering down the line. “She knows how to surf!” I thought, and then told her so as she paddled back out to me. “Ya, I’m fine when the waves are small and easy,” she replied.

A few days later, the swell was small enough that the point break was slow and boring. We made our way around to the more exposed beach break on the other side. The waves still weren’t what I’d call “big”, but they were closer to head high. The peaks popped up and broke more quickly. The wave was soft, breaking over sand, but there was a quickness to it, particularly in comparison to the slow, easy point break waves we had been surfing. I noticed a different energy in Sarah. If she was closer to the peak, she’d pull back and not take off. If she was anything close to being a little late, she’d let the wave go. Having surfed with her for a few days already, I believed she had the skill to take off late and deep and make it, but she was avoiding those situations.

In taking a moment to connect with her and ask about her experience, her story emerged. 20 years ago, she’d been in deep Baja CA, a week into what was meant to be a month-long+ trip. While trying to take off on a wave, she was a bit too late on a steep section. She tried, but didn’t make the drop. She became one with the lip, and in the process landed on her fin, which gouged deep into her thigh. It took a while to get the attention of the people she was with, to get to the relative safety of the beach, only to then endure a long bumpy drive to a very basic clinic and scary health care situation in a remote area. The injury ended her trip. Once back at home and physically healed up, she flung herself back into the ocean.

She didn’t want to let the injury stop her. She didn’t want to appear weak. She tried to forget about it and just keep surfing. That worked…. sort of.

As we drifted outside the surf zone, I quietly listened to her story. It all made sense to me. Her body had suffered a painful trauma. If the injury had happened in CA and she’d received help immediately, including good medical care, and the whole experience hadn’t ruined a long anticipated adventure, it may not have become as heavy of an emotional weight. In her case, the physical memory of painful injury combined with the fear and anxiety of the remoteness of the location and large serving of disappointment due to the altered trip, all combined to serve as a significant trauma.

The coping mechanism often suggested by our society : to “just get over it and get back out there,” worked, in the sense that it didn’t stop her from continuing to surf. However, it didn’t help her process the trauma. Therefore, even 20 years later, she still felt the effects.

My turn to get one!

Sarah initially told her story without much emotion. It was very matter of fact, as if telling a story that had happened to someone else. I listened, asked a few questions to be clear on the details, and then started by validating how scary that must have been at the time. I gave her space and encouragement to sit with the feelings of fear. When given an opportunity to connect to the feelings of the story, instead of just the details, the tears started flowing. She apologized, but I encouraged her to let the feelings happen. It’s ok to not be ok right now.

After the moment passed, I explained that it’s totally normal and understandable that she feels fear when faced with a situation (a steep drop) that triggers her body to remember a time it was injured. By ignoring it or avoiding those situations, she isn’t allowing herself the chance to move past it. We talked about the importance of accepting the fear.

Rather than trying to avoid the fear or feeling shame that it exists, the healing process begins with allowing oneself to feel it.

Her body is trying to keep her safe. That’s a good thing. We took a minute to listen to that message, accept it, and actually thank it for its efforts, allowing whatever emotions arise to flow. I suggested to talk to that fearful part, telling it, “I’m sorry you were hurt so badly. That was a very scary time and your reaction was perfectly justified. Thank you for trying to keep me safe. I appreciate you.”

Once that fearful part has had its chance to fully express whatever needs to be expressed, and those feelings are accepted and appreciated, there’s space for the next step, which is to notice what has changed since then. Since that time, Sarah has been surfing for 20 years. She is a much better surfer than she was back then. She has the skills to make steep drops. If there’s any doubt about that, surf coaching and working on popup technique can help.

Then, start small. On a small wave that’s only a little bit scary, try to pop up late. Notice the feelings that come up. If there’s fear, thank it for what it’s trying to do (keep you safe), but assure that part that you are capable. Come up with a positive mantra that works not to argue with that voice, but to change the script. Little by little, work up to bigger waves and steeper drops, not ignoring fearful feelings, but embracing and accepting them.

Celebrate successes, lean into falls, and smile at the simple pleasures and teachings of the ocean.

In preparing to post this story, I checked in with Sarah to see if she would be ok with me sharing and also to see if the she’d noticed any positive changes in the four months since our sessions. She said,

Yes it did help…. I repeat “all is well” to myself pretty much every time I turn for a wave now. It reminds me I’m ok, that I’m in control, and that it’s supposed to be fun. I think I never gave myself permission to talk about my injury because it maybe seemed trivial and I had no one who would understand it in a more complex way. So yes, it definitely helped. And it’s a process. Even just the permission to address those things in my surfing that hold me back helped so much. I feel like every session since Morocco is accompanied by a memory or conversation from the retreat that empowers me. I’m really glad I went and I look forward to going on another next year. It was an incredible experience and I really appreciate you listening and noticing and being there.

Holly recently completed a Master’s in Counseling and has been incorporating mental and emotional awareness into coaching to create Holistic Surf Coaching retreats. For more info on these specific retreats, click here.

Never Grab Your Leash String! The Story of an Amiga Who Lost the Tip of Her Finger

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I SPENT 7 DAYS CHATTING AND FROLICKING IN THE COSTA RICAN SURF WITH IRENE WITHOUT EVER NOTICING SHE WAS MISSING THE TIP OF HER RIGHT RING FINGER.

It wasn’t until after she had left the Surf With Amigas Retreat in Costa Rica that I heard her story, when the topic of fingers and leashes came up in our weekly classroom session. An amiga described her way of navigating a board through the whitewash, “a wrapping motion, directing the board by the leash.” Later on, this inspired a lively discussion amongst our crew of female surf instructors about the perils of the leash, while also revealing the story of Irene’s accident. 

What follows is Irene’s recount of that experience and how it has influenced her, in surfing and in life: 

It was 2012, I was 32 at the time and I was in Taiwan doing a Traditional Chinese Medicine Internship in the city of Tai Chung.  After hearing about the waves in Taiwan, I arrived and instantly started searching for surf spots. I found a spot called Fulong Beach, about 3 hours away from where I was staying by train. After contacting some friends, I decided to join them on a trip there that weekend, arriving a day before to give myself time to explore.

When I arrived to I found a surf shop that also served as a hostel.  I booked a room and met the owners, a cute newlywed Taiwanese couple. I went to sleep and put my alarm early for a dawn patrol session. 

I rented a longboard that morning and headed out to the beach bright and early. I don’t remember much about that first session, but I remember being happy.  I spent the rest of the day on the beach doing yoga and also rented a bike to explore. When the afternoon came I was already exhausted, but knew I only had two days to surf.  I wanted to commit to surfing as much as I could, because I had to be back in the hospital for my TCM internship on Monday. 

I decided to rent the longest, heaviest board so that I didn’t have to paddle much.  As I was entering the ocean, the swell started to pick up, and the whitewash felt stronger.  I was walking in, passing the waves by grabbing the nose of my board and through the whitewash. Suddenly a wave took my board, so I pulled it back using the leash. When I turned another wave was already coming, and I didn’t have time to turn the board around so I decided to pass through it by grabbing the tail.  I put my hand on the tail with my right ring finger next to the rope string that attaches to the leash. 

When the wave came I passed through it by pushing my hand on the tail. With the weight of the wave, the board, and me pulling in the opposite direction, the rope string amputated the tip of my right ring finger. I initially felt like the board had hit my hand, a strong slap. I didn’t think much of it, assuming it was just another bruise.  But when I brought my hand to the surface, I saw that I was missing the tip of my finger. I was in shock, it was surreal.  

The first thought that came to mind, was:  “Ok, don’t panic, you need to get out of the water and control the bleeding.”  I walked out of the water and the pain started to hit me.  I started to scream, “FUUUUUUCK”, over and over again, feeling the shock, the trauma, the pain, the loss.  I remember people were staring at me, feeling uncomfortable with my screams. I didn’t give a fuck. I continued to allow the trauma to move through my body and express it how I needed in that moment. I screamed, “HELP”, and shortly after the lifeguard appeared.  He was a young Taiwanese man, I could see he was very inexperienced.  He stared at me in shock.  I tried to signal to him that he needed to call the ambulance and to help me stop the bleeding. He did nothing. 

IN THAT MOMENT, I KNEW I HAD TO TAKE CARE OF THIS MYSELF. 

I put my t-shirt around my forearm and tightened it up like a tourniquet. After, I walked to the surf shop where the Taiwanese couple were. When they saw me, they instantly called the ambulance and were very supportive. I put my finger under running water to clean it from the ocean and sand. That’s when I felt the most pain.  It was excruciating. I covered it again with clean towels, keeping my arm raised to help stop the bleeding and went into the ambulance that had arrived. The Taiwanese surf couple drove behind me to the hospital. 

In the ambulance, I was panicking. But soon came the knowledge of all the spiritual practices I had done in my life.  I thought, “I have so many tools, now is the time to use them.” I started doing pranayama (breath work) and mantra repetition (like prayer). When I was focused on this, the pain went away. When I saw my finger again and was immersed in the experience of losing a body part, the pain came back. This was a beautiful realization of how potent our mind is, and how our breath is such powerful tool to relieve pain and stay in the present moment. Calming the nervous system allowed me to stay grounded. It was an incredible teaching moment.

When I arrived to the hospital, the Taiwanese couple stayed with me to help translate what the doctors had to say. I was very lucky. The plastic surgeon who only comes once a month happened to be there that day, and he was able to save my distal knuckle. This might not seem like much, but it gives me a little pad and more mobility of my finger. I am eternally grateful for that. When the surgery was finished, the Taiwanese couple payed for my hospital bills and had called someone from my TCM internship to come be with me. Lisa, a Vancouverite from Taiwanese heritage, went to the same TCM school in Vancouver with me. We were never friends, but she came anyways to be at my side. I will always be grateful for the generosity, kindness, and support shown to me by Lisa and the Taiwanese couple during this time.

After landing back in Taipei, Lisa’s dad came to pick us up from the airport and take us to Lisa’s aunt’s apartment. Her aunt received me with a home-cooked meal of chichek soup, full of heart medicine and herbs.  After that I went to my small apartment in Taichung to heal. 

I experienced PTSD symptoms for about a month, then slowly but surely they went away. I received lots of support from people in the hospital and neighbors all around. I felt like little angels where appearing right and left to give me love. I was alone but never alone. The great mother was taking care of me through the kind acts of strangers. Taiwanese folk will forever have a very special place in my heart because of this experience. 

MY FIRST SURF AFTER THE ACCIDENT WAS A YEAR LATER.

I surfed without a leash in Pacific Beach, San Diego. I had a great session and saw dolphins. It was amazing. My brother was pierced by a sting ray that same day, but that is another story. After that, I continued to surfed on and off until 5 years ago, when I moved to Tofino in Vancouver Island, BC. After the move I really started surfing more consistently. It was a perfect environment for me- since I had use a wetsuit and gloves, I felt protected and confident. 

Surfing is one of my passions in life, and I will be a surfer forever.  But this experience definitely changed my relationship to surfing.  Now I am more aware of the danger of the board. I don’t feel as carefree as I did when I started surfing. Even though I know I have the ability to do certain maneuvers and go for more critical waves, I psyche myself out because of fear [of the accident]. 

There is so much I still need to work on, but I am very proud of myself for sticking with surfing and not allowing fear to take my bliss away. Now, 10 years later, I can’t imagine my life without surfing and I am grateful for everything that I have learned through this beautiful journey of life. I’m grateful for the medicine of the ocean and for all the beautiful people I meet through this life transforming spiritual practice that is surfing! 

MY ADVICE TO OTHERS WOULD BE:

Keep your hands away from the tail! Cultivate deep belly breaths, those will keep you calm in difficult situations! Keep following your bliss! Keep searching for that perfect wave! Keep your heart open to new experiences and new people, you never know what life will gift you with!!  May you be safe, happy and free! Namaste. 

 

Continue reading “Never Grab Your Leash String! The Story of an Amiga Who Lost the Tip of Her Finger”

Develop a Strong At-Home Popup Practice with this Video Tutorial

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In this video tutorial Surf With Amigas Founder Holly Beck takes a holistic approach on how to develop an at-home popup practice.

In addition to learning all about different popup techniques + modifications, Holly will teach you an effective “reverse popup” technique that will help you target and ease physical limitations that you may feel in YOUR BODY while popping up.

Ready to dive down the surf tutorial rabbit hole?

CLICK HERE for more tutorial videos