reef break - Surf With Amigas

The Best Size Inclusive Surf Brands for Women

on July 14, 2024July 15, 2024 By Emma Roggenkamp

Starting a surf journey can be both exhilarating and intimidating, especially if you don’t fit the traditional surfer image often portrayed in the media. However, the ocean is for everyone, and embracing your unique self is part of the adventure.

Here, we’ll discuss some fantastic size-inclusive bikini and wetsuit options, along with a few essential beginner surf tips from an Amiga who’s joined us on many Surf With Amigas retreats, Maddie Stone.

Bikinis

Left on Friday: Left on Fridays goes up to a size XXL, and have comfortable, cute and supportive tops!

Carve Designs: Carve Designs offers XL sizing in rash guards and their leggings and are great quality.

Swimsuits For All: Known for its wide range of sizes and stylish designs, these suits are perfect for active water sports like surfing, providing both support and style.

Curvy Kate’s Swimwear: With a focus on fuller busts and a variety of trendy designs, Curvy Kate offers supportive and flattering options for plus-size surfers.

Wetsuits

Finisterre: This European company is our top wetsuit recommendation from our Amiga Maddie Stone. They have sizes that go up to a US women’s 22. This is one of the largest size ranges for wetsuits we’ve found! They also offer custom wetsuits, and have great neoprene jackets and tops.

Xcel Axis Long Sleeve Front Zip Wetsuit: Available in extended sizes, this wetsuit provides flexibility and warmth, ideal for surfing in cooler waters!

Rip Curl Dawn Patrol Plus-Size Wetsuit: Designed specifically for women with curves, this wetsuit combines comfort, performance, and durability.

What to Remember When Starting Your Surf Journey

Embarking on your surf journey is an exciting step. But it’s easy to feel discouraged, overwhelmed, or imposter syndrome, especially if you don’t feel like you identify with surfer stereotypes. On one of our latest episodes of Second Breakfast, Maddie Stone explains an her early experience that left her feeling disappointed:

“I went to Costa Rica and I signed up for a lesson and the guy brought a board and hadn’t asked height or weight or anything. And at that time, I didn’t know enough to know, I should put this out there proactively. And we show up, we’ve driven to a beach to meet and he pulls out a seven foot board, which, for me was not going to float me. I was not gonna catch any waves on that, especially at such a beginner level. It’s not only an inclusion type of thing, but it’s legitimately making the sport even harder to do. ”

Keeping that story in mind, here are some tips to help you get started on the right foot:

Finding the Right Instructor

Look for Experience and Patience: Choose an instructor who has experience teaching surfing at ALL LEVELS and demonstrates patience and understanding with years of experience underneath their belt. Personal recommendations or reviews can be very helpful in finding the right fit. Try finding a private lesson with a local instructor so you can get the attention and insight you deserve!

Self-Advocate and Choose the Right Waves

Advocate for Yourself: Do some research before your lesson, or go to a local surf shop and ask questions! (board and break recommendations, etc.). We always say, size matters when it comes to boards! Especially when you’re starting out, bigger is often better.

Start Small: Begin with smaller, gentler waves that are more forgiving for beginners. This helps build your confidence and skills without the intimidation of larger waves.

Stay True to Yourself and Positive: Remember that everyone’s surf journey is unique. Celebrate your progress, no matter how small, and avoid comparing yourself to others. Surfing can be challenging, and there will be ups and downs. Keep a positive mindset, and remind yourself that perseverance is key! Most importantly, stay true to who you are and what you enjoy. If certain aspects of surfing culture don’t resonate with you, allow yourself to focus on the parts that do.

Embarking on your surf journey, especially when you feel like you look different or don’t identify with different aspects of the industry, can be an incredibly challenging but rewarding process! Remember that perseverance can be a powerful statement of self-love and confidence. With the right gear, guidance, and mindset, you can ride the waves and experience the joy and freedom that surfing brings. Remember that the ocean is for everyone.

Hear Maddie’s surf journey about Busting Surf Stereotypes and Embracing Idenity on the Second Breakfast Podcast!

3 Essential Tips for Surfing Over Reef

on June 27, 2024June 27, 2024 By Emma Roggenkamp

Surfing over a reef can offer some of the most thrilling and picturesque experiences in the ocean. Our retreat locations in both Indonesia and the Maldives are renowned for their incredible reef breaks, attracting surfers from around the globe. However, surfing over reefs also comes with its unique set of challenges and risks, not to mention intimidation factor! Here are three essential tips to help you navigate these stunning but potentially hazardous spots safely and with confidence.

1. get to Know the Breaks

Understanding the specifics of the break you’re heading to is crucial. Every break has its own characteristics and potentially problematic zones. For this reason alone, local knowledge is invaluable. Once you arrive at your destination, talk to local surfers or guides to learn about the best tides, swell directions, and any specific dangers such as sharp coral heads or strong currents so you can be well equipped when you paddle out.

Most importantly, research the destination and surf breaks you’ll be going to before arrival. Watch videos, check out swell forecasts, and look at wave guides or other resources on websites like Surfline. Understanding the conditions you may be dealing with in advance will better help you prepare, both mentally and physically!

Pro Tip: Utilize Local Knowledge

2. Equip Yourself Properly

Surfing over reefs may require some additional gear to ensure your safety, comfort, and confidence in the water! Everyone’s preferences are different, but you may want to invest in some gear listed below:

Reef Booties: These can be extremely helpful in protecting your feet from sharp coral or rocks. If you have to walk over reef to paddle out to the break, they’ll also help provide better grip when walking over slippery, uneven surfaces. Not to mention, if you do find yourself with a few party favors from the reef on your feet, booties will help secure your bandages and provide more protection for your next session.
Rash Guards and Wetsuits: Rash guards and neoprene will not only protect you from the sun but can also soften any blows you might have with the reef!
Surf Helmet: You might not wear a helmet every time you paddle out, but if you’re looking to get some tube time or take off steep and deep in powerful, hollow waves over shallow reef, it may be something you want to look into. Not to mention with tropical surf locations becoming more crowded, protecting yourself from potential collisions with other surfers might not be a bad idea, either.

Finally make sure all of your surf gear (especially things attached to your surfboard) are in good working order before your departure! Using damaged or well-loved items (like leashes!) in critical conditions can quickly turn a minor mishap into a dangerous situation on a reef break, where you need to stay close to your board to avoid injury.

Pro Tip: Use a Strong, High Quality Leash

3. Perfect Your Technique

Paddle and Positioning

Reef breaks often require precise positioning and strong paddling skills to ensure you catch the wave at the right spot and avoid being caught inside.

Take-Off Points: Learn the take-off points specific to each reef break. This is where local knowledge is again invaluable. Being in the right position can mean the difference between a thrilling ride and a dangerous wipeout.
Paddle Power: Reefs often create powerful, fast-breaking waves. Ensure your paddling technique is strong and efficient. Practice quick, explosive paddling to get into the wave early and establish control.

Wave Selection and Exit Strategy

Choosing the right wave is critical, especially over a shallow reef.

Wave Selection: Avoid waves that are too big for your skill level. Start with smaller, more manageable waves and gradually work your way up as you gain confidence and experience.
Exit Strategy: Always have a plan for how to safely exit the wave. Know the safest routes back to the lineup or to shore. If you do wipe out, protect your head with your arms and try to fall flat to distribute the impact.

Pro Tip: Practice Duck Diving (DEEP!) & Don’t Hesitate on The Takeoff

Being proficient at duck diving (pushing your board under an oncoming wave) can help you navigate the sometimes-treacherous waters above a reef. On a steep, powerful wave, hesitating on the takeoff can lead to a potentially dangerous situation (likely getting hung on the lip and going over the falls). Remember to commit! Even if you fall, you’ll be in a safer position on the wave than at the top.

Surfing over reefs in destinations like Indonesia and the Maldives can offer some of the most memorable sessions of your life. Although the first time surfing a reef break might be intimidating, trust yourself and remember to have fun! Often times when we’re nervous we tense up or forget to breathe in stressful situations, which can have negative impacts on our surfing and safety! Breathe and have fun! Happy surfing!

How To Read Waves: Lesson 1 – Types of Breaks

on May 19, 2016November 10, 2024 By hollybeck27

The first thing a new surfer wants to learn (after they’ve learned the very basics of how to stand up on a wave) is how to “read” waves. We practice this in-person during surf sessions at our women’s surf and yoga retreats, and while we wish there was a secret password to unlocking this mystery that we could easily share with you, it’s actually a complicated skill to learn which takes years to grasp and a lifetime to master.

Want to watch a video about how to read waves? CLICK HERE!

When you think about it, reading waves is actually like predicting the future. You have to look at a lump of water and be able to anticipate what it’s going to look like in 5, 10, 15 seconds and then position yourself accordingly. Not an easy task! But, there are some shortcuts and tips that we can share to give you a jumpstart. This is the first lesson in our series, so read on to learn more about the different types of waves. If you want to get the full experience, join us on a retreat to have these features pointed out to you in person!

How do waves work?

Have you ever been watching surfers from beach thinking “man, they make that look so easy” or “why didn’t he go for that wave?” If you’ve never tried surfing it’s easy to think it looks like a paddle out, surf a wave cycle on repeat. If you have surfed before, you are aware there is much more to surfing than that and 90% of your time in the ocean is spent either paddling (out, over, in, for a wave, to avoid a wave you don’t want) or sitting on your board studying the horizon looking for a wave to ride.

To start with the very basics, here’s a graphic showing how waves work. Wind blows over the ocean surface pushing surface water up into waves. The wind-blown waves will travel on indefinitely until they encounter a shallow bottom surface, which slows down the bottom part of the wave, causing the top part of the wave to topple over and form a breaking wave.

The abruptness of the change in bottom contour affects the power of the breaking wave. Imagine yourself jogging. You trip over a speed bump and slightly topple over but are able to keep running. This is a wave encountering a gradually sloping bottom or very small sandbar or with a high tide. Now imagine you trip over a curb. Your fall will be more complete and harder. This is what happens at a medium tide. Finally, imagine tripping over a waist high wall – you would double over with force. This is what happens at low tide or when a wave hits a shallow reef sitting in deep water.

How fast you’re running will make a difference as well. So imagine the speed of your run to equal the strength of the swell, and the thing you trip over to be the ocean bottom contour, whether it’s rock, reef, or sand.

Being able to read waves is one of the most difficult skills to master in surfing. Here is the secret to reading them. The way you approach waves changes from wave to wave, day to day, and surf break to surf break. Only time and experience can get you to know when you should paddle for a wave or skip it. There are many aspects to reading waves but starting with the very basics : knowing what kind of break you are surfing is step one to gaining the knowledge of wave reading. Ok, onto the different types of bottom contours…

three main types of breaks

1. Beach Breaks:

Beach breaks are waves breaking over a sandy bottom. They are usually the most consistent types of breaks – meaning there would be surf-able waves on most days – since little swell is needed for waves to break over the sandy bottom.

Here's a diagram of how a sandbar forms. Wave action pulls sand off the beach to form a bar. — Here’s a diagram of how a sandbar forms. Wave action pulls sand off the beach to form a bar.

Waves break on sandbars that form on the ocean floor due to currents and wave action. The sand bars can shift with different storm and swell patterns which means that waves don’t break in the same spot every time.

With all the water coming towards shore via waves, that water needs a way to get back out to sea. This is how riptides form.

In the photo above you can see a low tide beach scene. The sand bar is visible along with a break in the bar caused by the water heading back out to sea that pulls sand with it. Since the water is deeper over the break in the bar, waves will be less likely to break there.

A rip current is a great place to choose to paddle out. Not only is the current going to take you out to sea, you will also likely have fewer waves coming at you to have to duck-dive or turtle-roll. When sitting in the lineup looking for a wave to catch, you want to avoid sitting in a rip tide for the same reason : waves will be less likely to break there and those that do will usually be choppy from all the outrushing water.

If it has been a long time since a swell or storm has broken up the sand bottom then the sand can settle and flatten which means that breaking waves will be more likely to close out – meaning to break all at once without any opportunity for a long ride.

Other factors such as piers, jetties, and storm drains may dictate what may happen to a sand bar and also where the rip tides form. Those factors can create a more consistent sand bar which is why you often see surfers crowding these areas.

Beach breaks are great for learning because there is little to worry about in the way of obstacles such as rocks and reefs. Waves will be breaking in multiple places which helps spread out the crowd. Also the waves are usually consistent, giving beginners plenty of tries to get the hang of surfing and more advanced surfers plenty of waves to practice on.

Our Northern Nicaragua Retreats and Northern Costa Rica Retreats are all primarily held at beach breaks.

2. Reef Breaks:

A reef break is a surf spot that has anything from smooth rock to razor sharp reef beneath the breaking waves. Since the reef doesn’t move around, these waves will break in generally the same spot and will be more predictable than a beach break.

Often times waves breaking over a reef have more power because when the swell energy approaches the reef, the abrupt change in bottom (material or depth) creates a more hollow wave. At lower tides reef breaks can be dangerous if the reef is shallow (note photo in the beginning of this section of dry rock visible very close to the surfer!).

Reef breaks are more predictable than beach breaks. The takeoff spot rarely varies very much so you can study where the waves are breaking, look towards the beach, choose a lineup marker (palm tree, hotel, lifeguard tower etc.), and then paddle directly to “the spot” each time, knowing that when the waves come, you’ll be in a good spot to catch one. Reef breaks typically have a consistent channel allowing you to paddle out easily. Since the takeoff spot is so predictable, crowds can often be more of an issue at a reef break than they would be at a shifty beach break.

Rote Island, Indonesia. Photo by Claire Murphy

While the potentially sharp and hard bottom of a reef break makes these spots more suited to more advanced surfers, there are some user-friendly waves that do break over reef. If you are a beginner planning to tackle a reef break, it’s a good idea to have a friend or someone like Surf With Amigas point you in the right direction to help you find the channel and avoid getting stuck inside on the reef.

If you are used to surfing beach breaks reef breaks are a great way to switch it up. They will force you to be more aware of your surroundings (shallow bottoms, line ups on the beach) and often offer better wave shape with the potential for a longer ride so you can practice new maneuvers in your surfing and have more time to think about what you’re doing.

On our Rote Island, Indonesia Retreats you would have an opportunity to surf a variety of reef breaks. If you join us on a Northern Nicaragua Retreat and we have some swell, we’ll get a chance to surf a fun reef break as well.

3. Point Breaks:

Point breaks are the quintessential wave you see in a surfer’s notebook doodles. The longest waves in the world are point breaks. The most well formed points come off of peninsulas that jut out into the ocean or some other feature underwater causing sand to build up to form very very long waves. They can have rock, reef, sand bottoms or a combination of rock or reef and sand (the rock or reef would act to hold the sand in place). Swell energy bends and peels along the peninsulas forming long, sometimes “perfect” waves.

The waves forming off these points break in the same direction, so they are either all breaking left or all breaking right. Like a reef break, the waves will typically begin breaking in the same spot and are therefore relatively easy to predict.

Point breaks are often times crowded due to their tight takeoff point and very long high quality rides. On a good day, riding a wave from the peak may turn into a slalom course with the surfer on the wave having to maneuver around surfers waiting for their own waves, paddling out, or trying to drop in. Unfortunately, point breaks are usually tucked alongside headlands that can block swell energy making them more fickle and require a larger swell than either reef breaks or beach breaks to make them work.

Pavones is the second longest left point break in the world and if you join us at one of our Southern Costa Rica Retreats you will have a chance to surf the zone! Our retreats in southern Morocco are at an incredibly long right point break- great for longboarding.